Because slip dresses are often made with delicate, lightweight, or slippery fabrics, Marri is a great pattern for french seams! If you are unaware what a french seam is, it is an elevate seam that fully encases the raw edge, for a really clean finish on both the outside and inside of the garment.
Even though Marri has three different hem options with the three different views/lengths, french seams can be achieved on whichever option you choose (as long as you’re not sewing in pockets!). I’ll show you how to sew a basic french seam on View B (straight side seam with no slit), and then how to adapt for the other two views with their respective slits and finishes.
The Basics of a French Seam on View B Slip Dress
*** Note – french seams can only be done on View B without pockets. If you are adding pockets, you cannot do french seams.
Sew on your straps and facings you your front and back garments, as written in the instructions.
Normally, you would sew side seams with right sides of the fabric together. But for french seams, you actually start with the wrong sides of the fabric together.
So lay your front garment down in front of you, with the facing flipped up and flat, and the wrong side of the fabric facing you.
Lay your back garment on top of it, with the facing flipped up and flat, and wrong sides of the fabric facing facing together.
Line up the raw edges of the side seams, matching up the seams where the facings are sewn on.
Stitch together 3/8″(1cm) from the raw edge, from the top of the facing to the bottom hem .
Trim the seam allowance back to a scant 1/8″(3mm).
Press the seam allowance flat and to one side. I like to also press from the other side as well to make sure its nice and flat.
Now fold the garment together the other way, so that right aides of the fabric are together. Pin together, again making sure the facing seam is aligned.
The raw edge of your seam allowance will be encased in this folded edge.
Stitch the entire side seam again, this time 1/4″(6mm) from the edge.
Here is what that looks like once stitched.
Finished french seam from the outside…
… and from the inside! a nice clean finish.
French Seams on View A Cami
Again, sew your straps and facings on your front and back camisoles. With wrong sides together and facings flipped up, pin together at the side seam. Sew 3/8″(1cm) from the edge, but this time only to the hem notch, and back stitch. Do not sew all the way to the bottom of the hem.
Clip into the seam allowance right below the stitching, right up to the stitch line at 3/8″(1cm).
Trim your seam allowance back to a scant 1/8″(3mm), but only where your seam is sewn together. Do not trim below where you have clipped.
Press the seam, and fold the cami with right sides together, encasing that raw edge.
Sew together 1/4″(6mm) from the raw edge. Once again stopping at the upper hem notch and back stitching.
Here is where we are at this point.
Snip into the seam allowance even more, right below the seam. Up to the stitch line at 1/4″(6mm).
Press the french seam side seam towards the back. The seam allowance below the notch can be pressed open for the slit hem facing.
Continue attaching your hem facings exactly as written in the instructions. If you need help, don’t forget to check out the post in this sewalong dedicated to that part!
Here is what the final product looks like from the inside once the hem facing is finished. A super super clean finish all around!
French Seams on the Maxi Dress with Slit
*** Note – a french seam can only be done on View C if pockets are omitted. If you are sewing in the pockets, you cannot do french seams.
I’m not going to show you every step for this view, because it is the same concept as View A above. Sew your french seam to the top of the slit, and clip into the seam allowance allowing you to press the slit open.
I would just suggest only sewing up to point slightly above the line indicated in the photo above. Not the slit opening notch indicated on the pattern.
LOOKING FOR MORE MARRI POSTS?
- How to choose between Marri & Marri Curve
- Marri Inspiration & Ideas
- Marri Sewalong : Joining pattern pieces
- Marri Sewalong : Darts & Staystitching (all views)
- Marri Sewalong : View A Straps, facings and side seams
- Marri Sewalong : View A Cami hem facing
- Marri Sewalong : View B (All steps)
- Marri Sewalong : View C Straps & facing
- Marri Sewalong : View C Pockets, side seams and finishing the straps and facing
- Marri Sewalong : View C Hem & slits
- Marri Bonus : French seams (this post!)
- Marri Hack : Colour blocked
- Marri Bonus : Fabric belt & thread chain loops
Don’t have the pattern yet?
