Woo-hoo , it’s zipper time on our Brumby skirts! Although other zipper installations are possible (invisible zipper, etc), the Brumby pattern instructions are for an exposed zipper, so that’s what we will cover today. It’s actually a lot easier than you might think!
Using tailor’s chalk, mark a rectangle on both the center back pattern pieces (on top of the waistband and fusible interfacing), 9 7/8″ down and 7/8″ across.
Note: The measurements for the basting are based on a 9” zipper. If your zipper is shorter or longer than this you will need to adjust the length of the marked boxes or it will not fit correctly.
Baste over the tailors chalk rectangle markings using a long machine basting stitch (shown from the wrong side of the fabric here).
Clip towards the corner at a 45-degree angle being careful not to cut the basting stitches.
Fold along the vertical basting stitches and press. This will form part of the zipper opening.
With right sides together, line up the center back edges.
Sew 5/8″ from the raw edge along the center back, starting at the horizontal basting stitches and ending at the hemline.
Press the seam open.
Turn your skirt right side out, so that it looks like it does above.
Working on the right side of the fabric, lay your zipper face down, and pointing towards the hemline, lining up the horizontal basting just below the zipper stop.
Attach the zipper tape to the skirt by sewing along the horizontal basting.
Note: Take care that you don’t sew across the whole width of the zipper tape. You only want to sew along the basting stitches for the width of the opening.
Flip the zipper to the inside of the skirt. The small seam allowance from the horizontal basting should now be hidden by the zipper tape and pointing downwards.
The next step is to attach the length of the zipper to the seam allowance. I find it helpful to temporarily attach the zipper to the seam allowance before stitching using a glue stick (or double-sided tape). This helps you get the placement perfect and keep the zipper in place while stitching.
I first use a glue stick to get the perfect placement and then pin it in place to ensure it stays.
Now attach the zipper by turning back the skirt back pieces one at a time, and sewing along the basting stitches to attach to the zipper tape.
This is why gluing it down first is helpful, to keep it in place since you will be sewing from wrong side of the fabric along the basting stitching.
Repeat on the other side.
Press well and topstitch around the zipper opening. Voila!
LOOKING FOR MORE BRUMBY POSTS?
- How to choose between Brumby & Brumby Curve
- Sewalong: Pockets
- Sewalong: Center Front (Version 1 & 2) & Side Seams (All)
- Sewalong: Waistband and Gathers
- Sewalong: Zipper (this post!)
- Sewalong: Waistband Facing
- Sewalong: Hem
- Hack: Asymmetrical Gathered Tier
- Introducing Brumby
- Tutorial: How to insert an exposed zipper
- Tutorial: How to gather heavy fabrics