Today on our Brumby skirt construction, we’re going to cover prepping the waistband, gathering the skirt (two different ways to do it!), and attaching the waistband. Everything is starting to take shape! So let’s get to it…
Waistband
Attach interfacing to the wrong sides of the Waistband Back and Front.
With right sides together line up the side seams of the waistband and sew 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Press the seams open.
Gathers, Version 1
Gathering heavy-weight fabrics such as denim is a little challenging, so we have provided a method specifically for those fabrics. For light to medium-weight fabrics that gather more easily, refer to the “Gathers, Version 1 & Version 3” section.
To make gathering easier, work one section at a time, where each panel of fabric is a section. So the skirt is divided into four panels, as seen above with the four colors.
For this method, we are going to use yarn/string/cord.
Set your sewing machine to a wide zig-zag and sew over the cord just under 5/8″ from the raw edge, leaving small yarn tails at each end. Be careful not to actually catch the cord with your stitches, the needle should land on either side of the cord as you are sewing.
Do this for each of the four sections.
Working in each section, pull the cord to gather up the fabric.
Place the waistband on top of the skirt with right sides together, and line up the waistline seam.
Note: The top edge of the waistband has notches, and the bottom edge does not. Be careful that you do not insert your waistband upside down
Ease the gathers into the waistband, adjusting your gathers and evening them out as you pin the waistband to the skirt.
Ensure that the side seams of the waistband line up with the side seams of the skirt, and that the center front of the waistband lines up with the center front of the skirt.
Sew 5/8″ from the raw edge around the waist seam.
Carefully pull out the cording from the zig-zag casing, and if any zig-zag stitches are visible on the side of the garment unpick them.
Press the waistband and seams up away from the body of the skirt.
Gathers, V 2 + 3
This method of gathering only works well on light to medium-weight fabrics as used in V2 & V3. For gathering, heavier-weight fabrics refer to the “Gathers, V1” section.
Also – you may notice the skirt in this section looks a little different. The sample I’m using here is a hack that I’ll be showing you later in the sew-along! Because of the nature of the hack, the center back seam is already sewn. But nothing changes about the gathering method.
For this method, you can choose to sew one continuous line of gathering stitches around the entire waistline….
… Or you may find it easier to work in sections, sewing separate basting stitches in each section.
So, set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length and sew a line of basting stitches a scant 5/8″ from the raw edge around the waist seam. Do not backstitch and ensure that you leave long threads on each end.
Sew a second line of basting stitches 3/8″ from the raw edge.
To gather simply hold the skirt stationary and pull on one of the threads to gather up the skirt.
Just like above, in gathering for Version 1, place the waistband on top of the skirt with the right sides together so that the waist seams are lined up.
Ease the gathers into the waistband, adjusting the gathers using the loose threads. Pin in place. Make sure that the side seams of the skirt match up with the side seams of the waistband, and that the center front of the skirt lines up with the center front of the waistband. Sew 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Press the waistband and seams upwards away from the body of the skirt.
LOOKING FOR MORE BRUMBY POSTS?
- How to choose between Brumby & Brumby Curve
- Sewalong: Pockets
- Sewalong: Center Front (Version 1 & 2) & Side Seams (All)
- Sewalong: Waistband and Gathers (this post!)
- Sewalong: Zipper
- Sewalong: Waistband Facing
- Sewalong: Hem
- Hack: Asymmetrical Gathered Tier
- Introducing Brumby
- Tutorial: How to insert an exposed zipper
- Tutorial: How to gather heavy fabrics
DON’T HAVE THE PATTERN YET?
