Next up for views B, D, and F of the Hovea jacket is sewing together and inserting the inset sleeves.
Later on, we will be showing the flat sleeve insertion method for views A, C, E, which you can certainly use for views B, D, F as well. But this inset sleeve method was found to be better for the quilted and bound versions for reducing bulk.
Fold the sleeve in half with right sides together.
Sew together 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Bind the sleeve seam with bias binding, using the same method we talked about in this post. Don’t forget to grade back the seam to reduce bulk!
This is important – you can’t see it here in my photo, but press the seams towards the opposite direction that your jacket side seam is pressed. This is to reduce bulk at the underarm.
Place your coat in front of you with the wrong side of the fabric facing out.
Again, make sure your side seam is pressed in the opposite direction as the sleeve seam.
Make sure you have marked the sleeve cap notch from the sleeve pattern piece.
Turn your sleeve right side out.
Slide your sleeve inside the jacket armscye with right sides together.
Line up the raw edges and pin together. Make sure the sleeve cap notch is lined up with the shoulder seam, and the sleeve seam lines up with the side seam.
Here you can see how the side seam and sleeve seam are lined up, but the seam allowances are facing in opposite directions to reduce bulk.
Sew the sleeve to the jacket 5/8” from the raw edge.
Bind the edge of the armscye seam using the basic binding method we talked about in this post.
Make sure you grade back the seams first, and pick which option you will use to join the two ends of the binding since the armscye is a continuous edge.
Again, here is the seam allowance at the underarm going in opposite directions. If they both would’ve been going in the same direction, it would’ve been too bulky to sew the binding at that spot.
Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve, and thats it!
| LOOKING FOR MORE HOVEA POSTS? |
Here’s the full list of Hovea inspiration and ideas:
- Inspiration & Ideas for Hovea
- Hovea Tester Roundup
- Hovea Curve Tester Roundup
- Hovea Planning Template
- Traditional Korean Textile Arts with Youngmin Lee
- Beginner Quilting concepts with The Weekend Quilter
- Top 10 tips from a quilters first journey into Me Made Clothing with Shannon Fraser
- Introduction to Indian Kantha Quilting with Manjari Singh
- Simple Log Cabin patchwork tutorial with Scribbly Gum Quilting Co
- Wholecloth quilting with Natalie Ebaugh
- Introduction to Japanese textiles and embroidery with Mari Yamada
- How to make a patchwork quilt design without a pattern with Broadcloth Studio
- Modern Quilting with Porfiria Gomez
- Making a patchwork jacket with leftover fabric
Here’s the full list of Hovea tutorials & Hacks:
- Sewalong | How to Choose Between Hovea & Hovea Curve
- Sewalong | Common Hovea pattern alterations
- Sewalong | Quilting prep
- Sewalong | Quilting Design & Planning
- Sewalong | Machine quilting
- Sewalong | Tips for making a patchwork jacket from scrap fabrics
- Sewalong | Basic Binding Method for quilt coats
- Sewalong | Pockets and Seams Quilted Views BDF
- Sewalong | Inset Sleeves Quilted Views BDF (this post!)
- Sewalong | Final Finishes Quilted View BDF
- Sewalong | Tips for Hand Quilting
- Pattern Hack | Tips for making Hovea reversible
- Pattern Hack | Sewing a Hovea Dressing gown
- Pattern Hack | How to make a quilt coat from a vintage bed quilt
- Sewalong | Unlined pockets Views ACE
- Sewalong | Lined pockets Views ACE
- Sewalong | Flat Sleeve Insertion Views ACE
- Sewalong | Ties & Hang Loop Views ACE
- Sewalong | Hemming Unlined Views ACE
- Sewalong | Full Lining Views ACE
- Sewalong | Collar band Views ACE
- Sewalong | Belt & Belt Loops Views ACE