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MN2302 Hovea / Sewalongs

Hovea Sewalong: View BDF Inset Sleeves

Inset Sleeves Hovea Views B, D & F

Next up for views B, D, and F of the Hovea jacket is sewing together and inserting the inset sleeves.

Later on, we will be showing the flat sleeve insertion method for views A, C, E, which you can certainly use for views B, D, F as well. But this inset sleeve method was found to be better for the quilted and bound versions for reducing bulk.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsFold the sleeve in half with right sides together.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsSew together 5/8″ from the raw edge.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen Patterns how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsBind the sleeve seam with bias binding, using the same method we talked about in this post. Don’t forget to grade back the seam to reduce bulk!

This is important – you can’t see it here in my photo, but press the seams towards the opposite direction that your jacket side seam is pressed. This is to reduce bulk at the underarm.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsPlace your coat in front of you with the wrong side of the fabric facing out.

Again, make sure your side seam is pressed in the opposite direction as the sleeve seam.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsMake sure you have marked the sleeve cap notch from the sleeve pattern piece.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsTurn your sleeve right side out.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsSlide your sleeve inside the jacket armscye with right sides together.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsLine up the raw edges and pin together. Make sure the sleeve cap notch is lined up with the shoulder seam, and the sleeve seam lines up with the side seam.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsHere you can see how the side seam and sleeve seam are lined up, but the seam allowances are facing in opposite directions to reduce bulk.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen Patterns how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsSew the sleeve to the jacket 5/8” from the raw edge.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsBind the edge of the armscye seam using the basic binding method we talked about in this post.

Make sure you grade back the seams first, and pick which option you will use to join the two ends of the binding since the armscye is a continuous edge.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsAgain, here is the seam allowance at the underarm going in opposite directions. If they both would’ve been going in the same direction, it would’ve been too bulky to sew the binding at that spot.

how to sew inset sleeves on views BDF of the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsPress the seam allowance towards the sleeve, and thats it!


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About Author

Holly writes part time for the Megan Nielsen blog– sewing like crazy, creating tutorials and sewalongs. She has been sewing since she was a little girl, and has her degree in apparel design. Now she’s a stay at home mama, and spends all her free nap times at her sewing machine.

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Linda
Linda
9 months ago

May I ask – is that Minky you’re using as an inner lining/inside layer?? and is that batting also? I’m a little worried that using both MInky and batting woudl be super bulky .. but I mean come on, Minky as an inner fabric would be soooo awesome :)