The first step in constructing views B, D, or F of the Hovea jacket is to attach the pockets and sew the side seams. With these views, you must first bind the top edge of the pockets (and if you are making view D, the bottom edge too. I’m going to be showing you on view D), and then attach them to the jacket front before sewing the shoulder and side seams. Let’s just jump in…
Grab your pockets and bias binding.
Bind the top edge of each pocket using the basic binding method. If you need help, we went in depth how to do this in this post.
If making the cropped or mid length views B or F, you only need to bind the top edge of the pockets.
If you are making the longer coat view D like I am here, you also need to bind the bottom edge of each pocket as well.
Mark the pocket placement from your front pattern pieces onto your fabric using pins or your choice of fabric marker.
Make sure you mark the correct notches, for there are different ones for the different lengths/views.
Place the pockets on the front so that the top edge of the pockets are aligned with the appropriate notches.
The outer edges of the pocket and front piece should align. Pin in place on both outer edges and along the bottom edge.
If you are making cropped view F or mid length view B, the bottom edge of the pocket will also align with the bottom edge of the front piece. If making the longer view D like I am here, it does not.
Baste the pockets in place by sewing just under 3/8″ from the raw edge around the side edges.
If making cropped or midi views B or F, also baste just under 3/8″ along the bottom edge….
If you are making the longer view D version, do a regular stitch, not basting stitch, along the bottom edge close to the edge of the pocket.
Repeat for the other pocket, making sure they both line up.
Now time for the seams.
Lay your back piece down with the right side of the fabric facing up.
Place your two front pieces down so right sides are together.
Line up the shoulder seams and side seams. Sew together 5/8″ from the raw edges.
Bind your shoulder seams using the basic binding method. Again, if you need help, full details on how-to can be found in this post.
And remember – we recommend grading back the seam allowance when binding inner seams like this to reduce bulk.
Now bind each side seam as well, with the same method, grading back the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
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Here’s the full list of Hovea inspiration and ideas:
- Inspiration & Ideas for Hovea
- Hovea Tester Roundup
- Hovea Curve Tester Roundup
- Hovea Planning Template
- Traditional Korean Textile Arts with Youngmin Lee
- Beginner Quilting concepts with The Weekend Quilter
- Top 10 tips from a quilters first journey into Me Made Clothing with Shannon Fraser
- Introduction to Indian Kantha Quilting with Manjari Singh
- Simple Log Cabin patchwork tutorial with Scribbly Gum Quilting Co
- Wholecloth quilting with Natalie Ebaugh
- Introduction to Japanese textiles and embroidery with Mari Yamada
- How to make a patchwork quilt design without a pattern with Broadcloth Studio
- Modern Quilting with Porfiria Gomez
- Making a patchwork jacket with leftover fabric
Here’s the full list of Hovea tutorials & Hacks:
- Sewalong | How to Choose Between Hovea & Hovea Curve
- Sewalong | Common Hovea pattern alterations
- Sewalong | Quilting prep
- Sewalong | Quilting Design & Planning
- Sewalong | Machine quilting
- Sewalong | Tips for making a patchwork jacket from scrap fabrics
- Sewalong | Basic Binding Method for quilt coats
- Sewalong | Pockets and Seams Quilted Views BDF (this post!)
- Sewalong | Inset Sleeves Quilted Views BDF
- Sewalong | Final Finishes Quilted View BDF
- Sewalong | Tips for Hand Quilting
- Pattern Hack | Tips for making Hovea reversible
- Pattern Hack | Sewing a Hovea Dressing gown
- Pattern Hack | How to make a quilt coat from a vintage bed quilt
- Sewalong | Unlined pockets Views ACE
- Sewalong | Lined pockets Views ACE
- Sewalong | Flat Sleeve Insertion Views ACE
- Sewalong | Ties & Hang Loop Views ACE
- Sewalong | Hemming Unlined Views ACE
- Sewalong | Full Lining Views ACE
- Sewalong | Collar band Views ACE
- Sewalong | Belt & Belt Loops Views ACE