View BDF Pockets and Seams

The first step in constructing views B, D, or F of the Hovea jacket is to attach the pockets and sew the side seams. With these views, you must first bind the top edge of the pockets (and if you are making view D, the bottom edge too. I’m going to be showing you on view D), and then attach them to the jacket front before sewing the shoulder and side seams. Let’s just jump in…

Grab your pockets and bias binding.

Bind the top edge of each pocket using the basic binding method. If you need help, we went in depth how to do this in this post.

If making the cropped or mid length views B or F, you only need to bind the top edge of the pockets.

If you are making the longer coat view D like I am here, you also need to bind the bottom edge of each pocket as well.

Mark the pocket placement from your front pattern pieces onto your fabric using pins or your choice of fabric marker.

Make sure you mark the correct notches, for there are different ones for the different lengths/views.

Place the pockets on the front so that the top edge of the pockets are aligned with the appropriate notches.

The outer edges of the pocket and front piece should align. Pin in place on both outer edges and along the bottom edge.

If you are making cropped view F or mid length view B, the bottom edge of the pocket will also align with the bottom edge of the front piece. If making the longer view D like I am here, it does not.

Baste the pockets in place by sewing just under 3/8″ (1cm) from the raw edge around the side edges.

If making cropped or midi views B or F, also baste just under 3/8″ (1cm) along the bottom edge….

If you are making the longer view D version, do a regular stitch, not basting stitch, along the bottom edge close to the edge of the pocket.

Repeat for the other pocket, making sure they both line up.

Now time for the seams.

Lay your back piece down with the right side of the fabric facing up.

Place your two front pieces down so right sides are together.

Line up the shoulder seams and side seams. Sew together 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the raw edges.

Bind your shoulder seams using the basic binding method. Again, if you need help, full details on how-to can be found in this post.

And remember – we recommend grading back the seam allowance when binding inner seams like this to reduce bulk.

Now bind each side seam as well, with the same method, grading back the seam allowance to reduce bulk.