Who is ready to get going on their Tania culottes?! I’m going to get us started with sewing the front and back pleats. The pattern instructions have you do the pockets first and then the pleats, but I like to get the pleats out of the way in the beginning. Whichever order you’d like to do them is fine and doesn’t change anything about the construction!
Ok, let’s go!
Let’s start with the front. On each of the front pieces, mark the stitch line indicated on the pattern, making a small circle/dot at the end. You can do this with tailors chalk, basting stitches, or pins.
Place the two front pieces on top of each other, right sides together. Line up the crotch seam, and make sure those stitch line marks line up. Pin in place.
First, stitch down the pleat line, attaching the two pieces together. Backstitch at the circle at the end. You may even want to add a bar tack at the end for added stability.
This is your centre front.
Now stitch together the crotch seam 5/8″ from the edge, and then finish the raw edge with your preferred method.
Open up your new front piece with right side facing down, so the pleat flap is facing you in the centre.
Form the pleat by opening it up and lining up the crotch seam with the centre front stitch line. Make sure it’s lined up and even, and that the top edges are lined up as well. Press well.
Staystitch in place 1/4″ from the edge.
This is what it looks like from the front side now!
Repeat everything exactly the same way for the back piece.
LOOKING FOR MORE TANIA POSTS?
Here’s the full list of Tania posts and tutorials:
- Inspiration and ideas
- Bonus: adding pockets to the old version of Tania
- Side seam and waistband
- Zipper (invisible zipper)
- Waistband facing – two ways
- Bonus : lapped zipper with waistband facing
- Inseam and hem
Here are some older Tania posts you might find useful
- How to lengthen the Tania culottes
- How to lengthen a hem with lace
- How to make midi Tania culottes (if you have the old pattern and want to make View C or D without purchasing the new version)
- Variation: Tania culottes with elastic back and side seam pockets
And some older tutorials that could help!
- Six seam finishes and when to use them
- Clipping vs. notching
- Three ways to sew a rolled hem
- Evening out a circle hem