Hey everyone! We have a really cool bonus post for you today! So as you know, the Tania culottes include instructions for installing an invisible zipper, which does work well with the pattern. But who here wants to see a different option? How about how to sew a lapped zipper?
Now, we’ve shown you a tutorial for sewing a basic lapped zipper in the past. But this is going to be a completely different construction method. We wanted to show you a really cool origami-like construction with the waistband and waistband facing. It produces a really clean look for the facing on the inside, and I’m obsessed with the way it looks!
Please don’t be intimidated by the long, photo-heavy post. I just wanted to be thorough and detailed since it is so different from a regular lapped zipper.
Also, you should note that this tutorial is showing a zipper in the right side seam (sorry about that), which is opposite to the left side seam zipper you will be doing with Tania. So everything is mirrored here. But it doesn’t affect the construction steps, so please don’t let that confuse you!
Ok, enough of that. Let’s just get to it, shall we?
First thing – there is a small circle notch indicated on the side seam of the front and back culotte pattern pieces. Make sure you mark this small dot on your fabric.
Also, you should finish the raw edges, using your preferred method, at this time before you get started (I forgot to do this).
On the right side of the fabric – mark 5/8″ away from the raw edge on both the front and back of the left side seam, above the small circle only. I usually do this with a line of basting stitches, but this time I used tailor’s chalk.
With the right sides together, stitch the front and back together at the left side seam 5/8″ from the raw edge, below the small circle only – form the small circle all the way to the hem.
With your zipper open and facing down, place the zipper teeth along your 5/8″ guide, on the right side of the fabric. Pin in place.
Using a zipper presser foot, stitch close to the zipper teeth, stopping at the bottom when your presser foot hits the zipper pull.
Zip up the zipper, and make a mark on the opposite side of the zipper at the waist seamline. This will help you line everything up correctly!
Now unzip again, and pin the other side of the zipper to the other side of the side seam, lining up the teeth with your 5/8″ guide and making sure that the mark lines up with your waist seam.
Stitch in place just like you did the other side.
On your facing, turn the bottom edge inwards by 5/8″ and press.
With right sides together, place your facing on top of the waistband, lining up the edges and pin along the short end only.
Using your zipper foot, stitch along the short ends, right along the zipper teeth. You can’t see the zipper teeth sandwiched in between the fabric, but your zipper presser foot will sit up against it. The stitch should line up with the stitching on the zipper.
Flip the facing over so you see the right side of the fabric, with the zipper tape and seam allowance pressed towards the facing. Understitch/topstitch on the facing close to the seam.
This is where it starts to get a little tricky, so stay with me! On the FRONT, make a mark 3/4″ in along the top edge of the waistband, from the edge of the waistband only (not including the facing). Remember, if you’re doing this on the Tania culottes, yours will be mirror imaged to mine here -the front will be on the opposite side.
I then put a pin here so you could see better the next step.
Fold the facing over along this marking (where I have the pin), so right sides of the facing and waistband are together. Start to pin in place along the top edge.
On the BACK, you will also fold the facing over the waistband, right sides together. Except on this side, just fold it as tightly as you can, right up against the zipper tape. Finishing pinning along the top edge.
Stitch along the entire top edge, from end to end, 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Clip your corners. You may also clip into the seam allowance to keep the seam smooth when you turn it right side out (just make sure you don’t snip into the stitches).
Now turn right side out, bring the facing to the inside. You can see here how the overlap for the zipper was formed!
Before we move on, snip into the seam allowance near the end of the zipper. This will help the overlap/pleat form more naturally from the outside.
Flip your garment to the outside and zip up your zipper. This is what it looks like from the outside! The hard work is done- only details to go now!
Press it all well.
On the BACK (underlap side), topstitch close to the seam/zipper tape.
On the FRONT (the overlapped side), topstitch 1/2″ away from the edge. You can do this neatly a few different ways – use tailors chalk or something similar to draw a guide, or place 1/2″ wide scotch tape along the edge and stitch along the edge of the tape!
When you reach the bottom of the zipper, pivot and stitch up to the seam, creating a 90-degree angle. (This part was hidden underneath the pocket).
Now you just need to finish enclosing the facing, just like with the invisible zipper construction. Either hand stitch the bottom edge of the facing on the inside, or stitch in the ditch from the front side, catching the facing on the inside.
That’s it! You did it! This is what the final product looks like from the outside. Again, mine is backwards (right side seam zipper. Yours would be the opposite on Tania in the left side seam. So the overlap will be on the left, not the right.
And this is what it looks like from the inside! What do you think? Do you like this look and method? Have any questions?
LOOKING FOR MORE TANIA POSTS?
Here’s the full list of Tania posts and tutorials:
- Inspiration and ideas
- Bonus: adding pockets to the old version of Tania
- Side seam and waistband
- Zipper (invisible zipper)
- Waistband facing – two ways
- Bonus : lapped zipper with waistband facing
- Inseam and hem
Here are some older Tania posts you might find useful
- How to lengthen the Tania culottes
- How to lengthen a hem with lace
- How to make midi Tania culottes (if you have the old pattern and want to make View C or D without purchasing the new version)
- Variation: Tania culottes with elastic back and side seam pockets
And some older tutorials that could help!
- Six seam finishes and when to use them
- Clipping vs. notching
- Three ways to sew a rolled hem
- Evening out a circle hem