We’re going to cover two steps of the Tania culotte construction today. First – is the right side seam. It’s a quick step and you’ll be over and done with it in minutes. We’re only doing the right side seam right now because the left side seam will house the zipper. And once we have that simple step out of the way, we will head into the waistband.
RIGHT SIDE SEAM
We will be sewing the right side seam only right now since the left side will house the zipper.
Lay your back piece down so the right side is facing you. Lay the front piece down on top of it with the wrong side facing you (so the right sides are together). Line up the raw edges to the right and pin them in place.
Stitch 5/8″ from the raw edge, all the way from the waist to the hem. And then finish the raw edge with your preferred method.
Don’t forget to open up your culottes and press well!
Attach interfacing to the wrong side of one waistband front, and one waistband back.
Take the two interfaced pieces and place right side together. Line up the RIGHT side, pin, and stitch in place 5/8″ from the raw edge. This is your waistband.
Take the two remaining non-interfaced waistband front and back pieces and place right sides together. Line up the LEFT sides, pin in place, and sew 5/8″ from the raw edge. This is your waistband facing.
Press the seams open on both the waistband and waistband facing.
You can now set aside the waistband facing (non-interfaced). We will pick it up again later after the zipper.
Now grab your culottes. Sew 5/8″ from the waistline edge, along the whole waistline.
Clip into the seam allowance, about every inch or so. Be very careful not to cut through the stitching.
Doing this will help the waistline edge contour to the waistband in the next step.
With your culottes laying with the right side facing up, place the waistband piece (interfaced) on top of it, right side facing down. The bottom edge of the waistband curve is what you are attaching to the waistline.
Line up the side seam. Start pinning the waistband to the culotte waistline by fanning out the clipped waistline to match up with the edge of the waistband.
Make sure you also line up the centre front and centre back notches on the waistband with the centre front and centre back seams, respectively, as you go.
Stitch 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Finally, press both the waistband and seam allowance upwards. (This shows you what it looks like from the wrong side).
LOOKING FOR MORE TANIA POSTS?
Here’s the full list of Tania posts and tutorials:
- Inspiration and ideas
- Bonus: adding pockets to the old version of Tania
- Side seam and waistband
- Zipper (invisible zipper)
- Waistband facing – two ways
- Bonus : lapped zipper with waistband facing
- Inseam and hem
Here are some older Tania posts you might find useful
- How to lengthen the Tania culottes
- How to lengthen a hem with lace
- How to make midi Tania culottes (if you have the old pattern and want to make View C or D without purchasing the new version)
- Variation: Tania culottes with elastic back and side seam pockets
And some older tutorials that could help!
- Six seam finishes and when to use them
- Clipping vs. notching
- Three ways to sew a rolled hem
- Evening out a circle hem