Elastic Waist Back + Side Seam Pockets // A Tania Culottes Tutorial

I’ve been dreaming of a breezy skirt with the easy functionality of shorts. I recently made the Flint pants and loved them so much I decided to try the Tania culottes. They are the most amazing secret shorts! They look put together, but they are so comfortable and so breezy. I want a different pair to wear every day of the week, and anytime someone compliments my skirt I proudly show them the inseam and that it’s really shorts. I love that I can sit on the floor and I can ride a bike without worries of flashing anyone. I altered mine to have an elastic waist back instead of a zipper and side seam pockets to make them a little more comfortable and functional. These are the best “shorts” I have ever worn! Whenever I get a compliment on this “skirt”, I have to show them that it’s actually shorts!

SUPPLIES

Tania culottes pattern
1.25″ elastic
Sewing supplies
3 yards lightweight fabric – I used rayon challis for my culottes. Here are 15 tips for sewing rayon challis and using pennies with rayon challis.

INSTRUCTIONS

Alter the back pattern pieces. For the culotte piece you need to slash and spread along the waist. Double the width between the side seam and the back pleat. For the back waistband you need to add the same amount that you added to the culotte on BOTH sides of the center back fold.
Draw a pocket shape that you like. Mark the same distance down on the side sem on both the pocket and the culotte.
Cut out the fabric. Cut out four pocket pieces. Two should be opposite of the other two.
Sew pleats, stride, and inseam. Interfacing the waistband pieces.
Finish the four side seams of the culottes. Finish the edges of the pockets.
Sew all four pockets to all four side seams at 5/8″ matching up the mark. Understitch the seam allowance towards the pockets.
Match up the front and back side seams and pockets with right sides together and pin. Sew at 5/8″ from the top of the pocket, down around the pocket, and down the side seam. Because I didn’t test the shape of my pocket I had to sew a step into the top of the pocket, and I sewed up the seam 3″ into the pocket to make it so nothing falls out.
Baste the pockets towards the front.
Sew the waistband together on both sides with right sides together. Sew the waistband onto the culottes.
Sew the waistband facing together on both sides with right sides together. Sew the facing onto the waistband. Understitch the facing with the seam allowance towards the facing.
Finish the edges of the facing.
Put on the culottes to figure out how much elastic you need for the back waistband.
Sew each end of the elastic onto both side seams of the facing. Fold the waistband facing down. Stitch in the ditch around the whole waistband. The back will be tricky since the elastic is smaller than the width. You’ll need to carefully move the excess fabric along the elastic to get a stitch with no tucks in the fabric.
To ensure that the elastic doesn’t twist or roll, stretch the elastic and sew down the middle of the waistband to hold it in place with the waistband fabric.