How to Sew the Collar and Stand

Time to attach the collar and stand to your Matilda dress! Sewing a shirt collar and stand can seem a bit intimidating, but as long as you do it carefully and methodically, it will go really well! I know I’m always going on about the importance of preparation and this is another step when good prep work will help you out with your sewing.

For my Matilda collar and stand, I am using a contrasting fabric for my internal stand and my main fabric for both collar pieces and my outer stand.

Ok, let’s get started!

These are the two collar stand pieces. Note that the outer collar stand is interfaced and I have marked the button and buttonhole placement with tailors tacks. For the internal collar stand I have folded up 5/8″ (1.5cm) along the bottom edge and pressed.

You should have two collar pieces where the outer collar piece is interfaced and the inner collar piece is not. 

Place the interfaced Collar Stand [10] over the neckline of the dress with right sides together and so that the notches on the Collar Stand line up with the notches and seams on the neckline. Sew the Collar Stand to the dress by sewing 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the raw edge all the way around the neckline.

The Collar Stand [10] will protrude from the front edge of the dress by 5/8″ (1.5cm).

Press the Collar Stand up and away from the dress. You may also wish to trim the seam allowance back if your fabric is bulky. I found i had to as my internal facing fabric was creating a lot of bulk.

Place the two Collar [11] pieces right sides together and line up the notches around the outer edges. Sew around the outer edge of the Collar 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the raw edge.

Trim back the seam allowance or notch. I recommend trimming back the seam allowance with pinking shears as this will result in a smooth finish.
Turn the collar the right way around and reshape the curve of the collar carefully. Press well keeping in mind that the interfaced side of the collar will be facing outwards. 

If you have included topstitching details in the rest of the garment, topstitch around the outer edge of the collar to maintain consistency.

Place the Collar [11] on the Collar Stand [10] with the interfaced side of the collar facing upwards. The un-interfaced side of the collar will be facing the interfaced collar stand. Pin or baste in place.

Place the un-interfaced Collar Stand [10] on top of the Collar [11] so that the Collar is sandwiched between the two collar stand pieces. Make sure that all the notches and edges line up correctly. Pin in place and then sew around the collar stand 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the raw edge through the inner collar stand, collar and outer collar stand.

 Trim the seam allowance and clip the curve.

Turn the collar stand right side out and press. Ensure that the folded edge of the inner collar stand covers the seam line and raw edges.

Topstitch or hand sew closed!

This is a small thing, but if you are using a contrast fabric for your internal facings, consider changing your bobbin thread to match, I think it makes for a neater look. Here I am using an orange thread in my needle for the outer stand, and a pink thread in my bobbin to match my facings.

And there you go, you’ve sewn a beautiful collar and stand!