You guys I hate playing favourites – but the tie-side waistband is my favourite variation of the Flint pants. So pretty and unique, and surprisingly practical!
Sewing this waistband up is really fun as it’s quite different to a normal waistband. I really hope you’re enjoying this tutorial – click through to learn how to sew the Flint tie waistband!
The very first thing to do is attach lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the Waistband [6] and Left Waistband [7].
Tip: Instead of cutting out the interfacing before attaching to the fabric, try block fusing. Cut a piece of fabric large enough to fit all pieces requiring interfacing, and attach interfacing to the wrong side. Then cut out all the pieces that require interfacing from the pre-interfaced fabric.
Tip: Ensure that all notches are marked on the waistband as it will help with attaching to the pants. Mark all buttons and buttonholes on the fabric at this stage with either tailor’s tacks or tailor’s chalk.
Place the two sets of Ties [8] right sides together. Sew ¼” (6mm) from the raw edge around the outer edges, leaving the short straight edge open.
Trim back the seam allowance close to the point.
Turn the ties right way round, then press well.
Place the ties right side together on the Waistband [6] at the positions indicated on the pattern piece so that the tie butts up against the notch. Baste in place ½” (1.3cm) from the raw edge.
Place the Left Waistband [7] right sides together on the left seam of the Waistband [6]. Sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge through the waistband pieces and the tie.
Press the seams open or towards the back.
Note: if using a particularly thick fabric you may need to grade back the seam allowance (especially on the ties) to reduce bulk.
You can do this step after you’ve attached the waistband if you prefer. Turn in the inside edge of the waistband by 5/8” (1.5cm) and press well. This will be the edge furthest away from the ties (ie the inside of the waistband!)
Place the waistband on the pants with right sides together so that the notches on the waistband line up with the indicated points on the pants. Make sure you attach the waistband the correct way, the edge of the ties will now sit very close to the waistline seam.
The waistband piece will extend 5/8” (1.5cm) beyond the pocket opening, and beyond the pocket back on the inside of the garment.
Sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge along the waist seam being careful not to catch the ties in your stitches.
Press the seam up towards the waistband.
Fold the waistband in half with right sides facing each other, and match up the folded edge of the waistband with the waist seam previously sewn.
Sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge along the waistband edges. Be careful not to catch the pants or pocket edge in your sewing. The outer waistband edge will include a tie. The inner waistband piece will not.
Clip the corners and trim the seam allowance back.
Note: If using a particularly thick fabric you may need to grade back the seam allowance (especially on the ties) to reduce bulk.
Turn the waistband the right way round and press. Make sure you use a pointing tool to make the top corners of the waistband nice and square.
Pin the waistband to the seam allowance on the inside of the pants.
Carefully topstitch just under 1/8” (3mm) from the seam edge on the outside of the pants to enclose the waistband.
Sew a single buttonhole on the inner waistband in the position indicated on the pattern. Sew a single button on the inside of the outer waistband in the position indicated on the pattern.
The pants will now close with the aid of a hidden internal button and side ties. If you are sewing View B or View D of the Flint pattern – the last thing to do is hemming!! Hurray! If you’re sewing View A or View C, the button-up waistband variations, then my next tutorial will be for you!
LOOKING FOR MORE FLINT POSTS?
Here’s the complete list of Flint tutorials:
- 5 ways to transfer pattern markings to fabric
- How to lengthen or shorten the pattern
- How to remove release tucks and convert to a flat front
- Inspiration, fabric ideas and optional ideas for customising your pattern
- Release tucks and darts
- Pockets with side opening
- Sewing seams
- Sewing the tie waistband View B & View D (covered in this post!)
- Sewing the button up waistband View A & View C
- Hemming
We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNflint and @megannielsenpatterns if sharing on social media.
Don’t have the pattern yet?
