Hello lovely people! Today I’m going to walk you through sewing the button-up waistband on the Flint pants or shorts! This will apply to View A & C in the pattern. It’s super easy and only involves one pattern piece, which is rad. For my pair, I decided to add an extra set of buttons on the opposite side of the waistband to match the closures. I think it makes for a really cute look!
Ok, let’s get sewing!
The first step is to attach lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the Waistband . Instead of cutting out the interfacing before attaching it to the fabric, I like to block fuse. Cut a piece of fabric large enough to fit all pieces requiring interfacing, and attach interfacing to the wrong side. Then cut out all the pieces that require interfacing from the pre-interfaced fabric. For a full tutorial on block fusing, check out this post.
Don’t forget to make sure that all notches are marked on the waistband as it will help with attaching to the pants. Mark all buttons and buttonholes on the fabric at this stage with either tailor’s tacks or tailor’s chalk.
Turn in the inside edge of the waistband by 5/8” (1.5cm) and press well. You can tell which edge is the inside edge as it is the edge furthest away from the button markings. You can also do this once you’ve attached the waistband to the pants, I just find it easier to press it first sometimes :)
Place the waistband over the pants with right sides together so that the notches on the waistband line up with the corresponding seams on the pattern. The waistband piece will extend 5/8” (1.5cm) beyond the pocket opening, and beyond the Pocket on the inside of the garment.
Notice that the button and buttonhole markings are close to the seam, this is a good trick for making sure you haven’t put the waistband on backwards.
Ensure that you continue to leave the left pocket open, as this will be the opening you step into when putting the pants on.
Sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge along the waist seam.
Press the seam up towards the waistband.
Fold the waistband in half with right sides facing each other, and match up the folded edge of the waistband with the waist seam previously sewn
Sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge along the waistband edges. Be careful not to catch the pants or pocket edge in your sewing.
Clip the corner and trim the seam allowance back.
Turn the waistband the right way round and press. Make sure you use a pointing tool to make the top corner of the waistband nice and square.
Pin the waistband to the seam allowance on the inside of the pants.
Carefully topstitch just under 1/8” (0.3cm) from the seam edge on the outside of the pants to enclose the waistband.
Sew two buttonholes on the outer left waistband in the positions indicated on the pattern.
Sew two buttons on the inner left waistband in the positions indicated on the pattern.
You may use a hook and eye instead of buttons if preferred, and you can also switch up the placement to hide the buttons on the inside of the garment. To do this you would sew buttonholes on the inside waistband instead of the outer, and you would hand sew buttons to the inside of the outer waistband.
We have almost finished our pants! The very last thing is to hem them! So exciting!!
LOOKING FOR MORE FLINT POSTS?
Here’s the complete list of Flint tutorials:
- 5 ways to transfer pattern markings to fabric
- How to lengthen or shorten the pattern
- How to remove release tucks and convert to a flat front
- Inspiration, fabric ideas and optional ideas for customising your pattern
- Release tucks and darts
- Pockets with side opening
- Sewing seams
- Sewing the tie waistband View B & View D
- Sewing the button up waistband View A & View C (covered in this post!)