Ok, we’re getting closer to the finish line with our Sudley! Especially if you’re making an unlined blouse – you’re almost there! Next up we just have to attach the sleeves and sew up the side seams, so that’s what we will go over today.
Attaching the sleeve is the same no matter what version of sleeve you choose – short sleeve, elbow length, or long sleeve with elastic casing. I’ll just be showing you a short sleeve today for simplicity and minimal fabric. Also another note – if you’re making a lining, you will want to get this step of the sleeves and side seams done first before attaching the lining! Does that all make sense? Then let’s get to it…
Make sure you have transferred the markings along the sleeve cap from the pattern piece to the fabric.
Now set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length, and sew a line of basting stitches between the notches, 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Do not backstitch, and leave the threads slightly long and loose.
Now lay your bodice down in front of you, open, with the right side of the fabric facing up.
Place your sleeve down on top of the bodice, with right sides of the fabric together. Start by matching up the centre notch on the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam, and pin in place.
Then match up the very edge of the sleeves with the ends of the armscye. Pin in place from the ends to the other notches, leaving the space between the notches and side seam open, as shown above.
Now gently pull on those loose thread tails to ease the rest of the sleeve cap into the armscye. You don’t want to pull on them so much that you create gathers, only just a bit to create ease and allow the sleeve cap to line up with the armhole.
Once you have it eased in and all lined up, finish pinning the rest together.
Sew around the sleeve seam 5/8″ from the raw edge. Finish the raw edge with your preferred method. Then press the seam towards the sleeve.
Here’s the finished sewn-in sleeve, right side out, after pressing!
Now let’s finish up with the side seams.
Turn the bodice inside out, so that the right side of the fabric of Side A and Side B are facing each other.
Line up the side seams and underarm seams and pin in place.
Sew each side as one continuous stitch from the underarm sleeve and down the side seam, 5/8″ from the raw edge. Finish your raw edge with your preferred method and press open or to one side.
LOOKING FOR MORE SUDLEY POSTS?
Here’s the full list of Sudley posts and tutorials:
- Pattern Tester Round-up
- Ties and Shoulder Seams
- Bias Facing (Views A, B, D)
- Sleeves and Side Seams (this post!)
- Bodice Lining (View C)
- Skirt (View C)
Here are a couple of posts you also might find useful:
- 5 Tips to Sewing a Perfect Rounded Collar
- How to Finish the Sudley Keyhole & Neckline with a Bias Facing