Hi Friends! Today we are going to go over how to finish off the raw edge of the armscyes for our Sleeveless Durban jumpsuits (views B & D). We do this with a sleeveless facing. It’s super easy, so let’s just get to it.
To start, staystitch around the armscye of both the front and back pieces 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge.
Attach lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the 2 front sleeveless facing pieces, and the 2 back sleeveless facing pieces.
Now take one front sleeveless facing piece, and one back sleeveless facing piece. You can tell the difference because the front and back are slightly different shapes, and the front has one notch while the back has two notches.
Place the front and back sleeveless facings right sides together so that the short edges line up.
Sew along the two short ends 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the raw edge.
Press the seams open.
Stitch 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge along the outer edge of the facing. This will act as a pressing guide.
Turn in 5/8” (1.5cm) to the wrong side on the outer raw edge of the sleeveless facings, using the stitching as your guide, and press well. Don’t worry about the under turned fabric overlapping – this will happen. Just try and get that outer curved edge nice and smooth.
Here is that curved outer edge from the right side of the fabric now.
Place your bodice down with the right side of the fabric facing out. And the sleeveless facing with the wrong side facing out.
Place the sleeveless facing on the bodice, around the armhole, with right sides together. Pin in place.
** Make sure that you are using the correct facing with the correct armscye. The front armscye contains a single notch and the back armscye contains a double notch – make sure these notches matching up on the bodice and facing.
Sew the facing to the bodice 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge around the entire armscye.
Clip into the seam allowance every 1” (2.5cm), being careful not to clip through the stitches. You may also wish to trim back the seam allowance to reduce bulk.
Press the seams and facing away from the garment.
Understitch along the facing, close to the seamline. This means you will sewing through the facing and the seam allowance.
This will prevent the facing from rolling to the front of the garment when finished.
Turn the facings to the wrong side of the garment and press. Pin in place if necessary.
Stitch along the facing outer edge to enclose the raw edges.
That’s it! Repeat for the the other armscye, and your sleeveless finishing is done!
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