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MN2106 Rowan / Sewalongs

Rowan Hack : Fully Enclosed Sleeveless

how to hack a fully enclosed Rowan tee by Megan Nielsen Patterns

As promised, I have another sleeveless Rowan hack for you today! This one is really fun. We’re talking a completely enclosed sleeveless Rowan tee. That means two layers, completely lined, clean finish. No neckband or sleeve bands. And no hemming! Fun right? There are more steps than the version with the bands we went over before, but its actually a quick sew once you get the hang of it. I’ve made a few versions now and it goes super fast and is so satisfying.

I made mine here with the same fabric for both layers, but this would be so fun in two colors. It would be completely reversible! Someone please try it haha.

Let’s jump in, because there is a lot to show you…

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Let’s start with a quick pattern adjustment. At the underarm, I measured 1/2″ down the side seam.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

At the shoulder, I also measured in 1/2″.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Re-draw your armhole connecting these two points. Do this for both the front and back bodice. Cut at these new lines.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

You will need to cut two pairs of bodices – thats two front bodices and two back bodices.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Place one front and one back together with right sides together. Line up and sew at the shoulder seams 1/4″ from the raw edge using either a zig zag stitch or serger. Repeat for the other front and back bodice. Press the seams either open or towards one side.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Lay each side open, one with the wrong side of the fabric up, the other with the right side of the fabric up.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Place them together with right sides together, lining up the neckline. Match up the shoulder seams and line up the raw edges, pinning around the neckline.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Sew 1/4″ around the neckline using a zig zag stitch or serger.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Pick up the top layer and push through the neck to turn right side around.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Press your enclosed neckline flat.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Next we are going to sew the armholes closed. To do this we are going to use the burrito method.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

While looking at your garment laying open, start rolling the left side up tightly towards the right side.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns
how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Then pick up the top layer of the right side and fold it open and over the rolled portion.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Then bring it around to meet with the other half of the right side, so now the right sides of the fabvric are together. The rolled up side is encased in between, hence the “buritto” method.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Pin and sew along the armhole 1/4″ from the raw edge using a zig zag stitch or serger.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns
how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Reach in and pull the garment right side out again.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Lay your top open flat again. Looking at it like this, you can see that the armhole on the right is enclosed, and the left one is open.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Now do the same thing, this time rolling up the right side.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Lift up the top layer of the left side and fold it over the rolled portion.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Bring right sides of the armhole together, encasing the rolled portion like before, and again sew 1/4″ from the raw edge.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Reach in and pull right side out.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Now the neckline and both armholes are fully enclosed!

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Next we are going to do just one side seam.

With the top laying open like this, you can see we need to match up the underarm seams (red arrows) together, and the two corners near one hem with the two corners at the other end. All with right sides together. I hope that makes sense! Some of these steps are hard to shop in photographs.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns
how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Here is the side seam pinned together with right sides together, with the underarm seam matching up in the center.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Sew together 1/4″ from the raw edge using a zig zag stitch or serger.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Reach in and pull everything right side out.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Next, we are actually going to sew up the bottom hem, and save the second side seam for last.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns
how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Pick up one side of the open side seam and open it up so the hem is laying flat, like shown here.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns
how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Pick up the top layer, and lay it open over top the straps and neckline.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Then bring it back around so the hem layers are now right side together and the neckline and armholes are enclosed in between. match up the side seam and line up the raw edges of the hem.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Sew together 1/4″ from the raw edge using a zig zag stitch or serger.

Once again, reach in through one of the open sides and pull right side out.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

All thas left to do now is the second side seam. It should look like you see here.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

We need to place the fabric right sides together. I like to start at the hem seams, where the arrows are pointing to here.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Place the hem seams together with right sides together, lining up the raw edges, and pin in place.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

From there, you can go around, continuing to pin the rest of the side seam together with right sides together. As you do so, the garment will naturally turn sort of inside out , with the neckline and armholes kind of twisted inside. this is normal. Continue lining up and pinning the whole side seam, making sure the seam at the underarm is also matched up.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns
how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Sew around the side seam 1/4″ from the raw edge, but leave about 1.5″ opening, as show here.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns
how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Reach in through that 1.5″ opening and pull your top right side out.

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns
how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Now you can just slipstitch that 1.5″ opening closed by hand, and everything is fully enclosed!

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

Like magic, right?!

how to sew a sleeveless version of the Rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

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rowan tee and bodysuit by Megan Nielsen Patterns

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About Author

Holly writes part time for the Megan Nielsen blog– sewing like crazy, creating tutorials and sewalongs. She has been sewing since she was a little girl, and has her degree in apparel design. Now she’s a stay at home mama, and spends all her free nap times at her sewing machine.

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Kate
Kate
8 months ago

That is SO clever. Will need to keep this post for ever as I’d never remember how to do it

Meg
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Meg
8 months ago
Reply to  Kate

So glad you found it helpful!! xo