As promised, I have another sleeveless Rowan hack for you today! This one is really fun. We’re talking a completely enclosed sleeveless Rowan tee. That means two layers, completely lined, clean finish. No neckband or sleeve bands. And no hemming! Fun right? There are more steps than the version with the bands we went over before, but its actually a quick sew once you get the hang of it. I’ve made a few versions now and it goes super fast and is so satisfying.
I made mine here with the same fabric for both layers, but this would be so fun in two colors. It would be completely reversible! Someone please try it haha.
Let’s jump in, because there is a lot to show you…
Let’s start with a quick pattern adjustment. At the underarm, I measured 1/2″ down the side seam.
At the shoulder, I also measured in 1/2″.
Re-draw your armhole connecting these two points. Do this for both the front and back bodice. Cut at these new lines.
You will need to cut two pairs of bodices – thats two front bodices and two back bodices.
Place one front and one back together with right sides together. Line up and sew at the shoulder seams 1/4″ from the raw edge using either a zig zag stitch or serger. Repeat for the other front and back bodice. Press the seams either open or towards one side.
Lay each side open, one with the wrong side of the fabric up, the other with the right side of the fabric up.
Place them together with right sides together, lining up the neckline. Match up the shoulder seams and line up the raw edges, pinning around the neckline.
Sew 1/4″ around the neckline using a zig zag stitch or serger.
Pick up the top layer and push through the neck to turn right side around.
Press your enclosed neckline flat.
Next we are going to sew the armholes closed. To do this we are going to use the burrito method.
While looking at your garment laying open, start rolling the left side up tightly towards the right side.
Then pick up the top layer of the right side and fold it open and over the rolled portion.
Then bring it around to meet with the other half of the right side, so now the right sides of the fabvric are together. The rolled up side is encased in between, hence the “buritto” method.
Pin and sew along the armhole 1/4″ from the raw edge using a zig zag stitch or serger.
Reach in and pull the garment right side out again.
Lay your top open flat again. Looking at it like this, you can see that the armhole on the right is enclosed, and the left one is open.
Now do the same thing, this time rolling up the right side.
Lift up the top layer of the left side and fold it over the rolled portion.
Bring right sides of the armhole together, encasing the rolled portion like before, and again sew 1/4″ from the raw edge.
Reach in and pull right side out.
Now the neckline and both armholes are fully enclosed!
Next we are going to do just one side seam.
With the top laying open like this, you can see we need to match up the underarm seams (red arrows) together, and the two corners near one hem with the two corners at the other end. All with right sides together. I hope that makes sense! Some of these steps are hard to shop in photographs.
Here is the side seam pinned together with right sides together, with the underarm seam matching up in the center.
Sew together 1/4″ from the raw edge using a zig zag stitch or serger.
Reach in and pull everything right side out.
Next, we are actually going to sew up the bottom hem, and save the second side seam for last.
Pick up one side of the open side seam and open it up so the hem is laying flat, like shown here.
Pick up the top layer, and lay it open over top the straps and neckline.
Then bring it back around so the hem layers are now right side together and the neckline and armholes are enclosed in between. match up the side seam and line up the raw edges of the hem.
Sew together 1/4″ from the raw edge using a zig zag stitch or serger.
Once again, reach in through one of the open sides and pull right side out.
All thas left to do now is the second side seam. It should look like you see here.
We need to place the fabric right sides together. I like to start at the hem seams, where the arrows are pointing to here.
Place the hem seams together with right sides together, lining up the raw edges, and pin in place.
From there, you can go around, continuing to pin the rest of the side seam together with right sides together. As you do so, the garment will naturally turn sort of inside out , with the neckline and armholes kind of twisted inside. this is normal. Continue lining up and pinning the whole side seam, making sure the seam at the underarm is also matched up.
Sew around the side seam 1/4″ from the raw edge, but leave about 1.5″ opening, as show here.
Reach in through that 1.5″ opening and pull your top right side out.
Now you can just slipstitch that 1.5″ opening closed by hand, and everything is fully enclosed!
Like magic, right?!
LOOKING FOR MORE ROWAN POSTS?
- Sewalong : Crew Neck Band and Turtleneck
- Sewalong : V-neck Band
- Sewalong : Sleeves and Side Seams
- Sewalong : Bodysuit Leg Openings
- Sewalong : Hem
- Sewing Technique : Lettuce Hem
- Sewing Technique : Shell Tuck Stitch / Scallop Edge
- Hack : Sleeveless with Sleeve Bands
- Hack : Fully Enclosed Sleeveless (this post!)
- Hack: Sleeve Ties
- Hack : Square Neckline
- Hack : Cinched Side Seams
- Hack : Ruffle Shoulders
- Hack : Maxi Dress
- Hack : Scoop Neckline
- Hack : Bodycon Dress
- Hack : Tiered Dress
- Tutorial : Lengthen or Shorten
- Tutorial : 3 Ways To Sew a Ringer Tee
- Rowan Inspiration and Ideas
- Rowan Tester Round Up
- Rowan Curve Tester Round Up
- Rowan Curve Maker Round Up
DON’T HAVE THE PATTERN YET?
