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MN2007 River / Sewalongs

River Sewalong: Stay stitching and side seam pockets

how to staystitch and sew the pockets of River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Who’s ready to get started on River?! These first few steps we’re going to cover are for woven versions only (View B & D) – stay stitching and side seam pockets. So if you are making knit views A or C, you can go ahead and skip this part.

Having said that, if you want to add pockets to a knit version you certainly can and we’ll talk about that in the post.

Ok, here we go!

STAYSTITCHING

how to staystitch and sew the pockets of River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Before getting started on anything, you’ll want to staystitch around all neckline edges (pattern pieces 1, 2 & 3), just under 1/4” from the raw edges. Again, you only need to do this for woven views B & D. This will help prevent the fabric from unwanted stretching during sewing.

POCKETS

The next few steps for attaching the side seam pockets are for View B – woven dress. You can add pockets to the knit dress (View A) but keep in mind that this could result in a lot of bulk at the seams with the recommended stable knit fabrics. If you decide you would like to add pockets to your knit dress, just follow these steps (excluding finishing raw edges as knit fabric won’t fray), but don’t forget about the potential for bulky side seams!

how to staystitch and sew the pockets of River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

First, finish the edge of all 4 pocket pieces with your preferred method. I used a serger, but you could also use pinking shears, zig zag stitch, etc.

how to staystitch and sew the pockets of River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary
how to staystitch and sew the pockets of River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Place your dress pattern pieces in front of you right side up. Place the pocket pieces right side down so that the top of each of the pockets lines up with the notches on the side seams. Note – it’s the third notch down for the pocket. the first two notches are for the belt loops. So make sure you’re lining it up at the right one. 

Pin in place.

how to staystitch and sew the pockets of River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Sew in place 1/2” from the edge.

how to staystitch and sew the pockets of River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Finish the raw edge of the entire side seam, from underarm to hem, using your preferred method.

Do this for all 4 side seams.

how to staystitch and sew the pockets of River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary
how to staystitch and sew the pockets of River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Press the pockets and side seams outwards.

Understitch the pocket to the seam allowance, close to the seam. This prevents the pockets from rolling to the outside.

That’s it for now! We’ll finish sewing the pockets together when we do the side seams in the next step.


LOOKING FOR MORE RIVER POSTS?

Here’s the full list of River posts and tutorials:

We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNriver and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!

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About Author

Holly writes part time for the Megan Nielsen blog– sewing like crazy, creating tutorials and sewalongs. She has been sewing since she was a little girl, and has her degree in apparel design. Now she’s a stay at home mama, and spends all her free nap times at her sewing machine.

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