Here we go! The first steps in our Roawn tee and bodysuit construction. Today we will cover the shoulder seams, and both the crew neck band and turtleneck band. The construction of these two neck finishings are pretty much the same, which is why I’m covering them both here. Are you ready to get started?
Crew Neck Band
Place the front and back of the tee or bodysuit right side together, matching up the shoulder seams.
Sew together at the shoulder seams 1/4″ from the raw edge, using either a zig zag stitch or serger. Press the seams either open or towards the back.
Match up the two shorter edges of your crew neck band with right sides together, and sew 1/4″ from the raw edge.
Press the seam open or flat.
Fold the band in half width ways with wrong sides together and the raw edges touching.
Make sure you have all four notches marked on the neck band.
Make sure the center front and center back of your tee is marked. With your garment open and the right side of the fabric facing up, match the seam of the neckband with the left shoulder seam, and so that raw edges are aligned.
Continue pinning the rest of the neck band to the neckline, matching up the other notches with the right shoulder seam, center front, and center back, respectively. The band will be smaller than the neckline opening, stretch slightly to line up as you pin.
Sew 1/4″ from the raw edge around the neckline using either a zig zag stitch or serger, stretching the band slightly as you go so that the raw edges line up.
Press the neck band up away from the tee, wit the seam allowance pressed in towards the tee.
Don’t skip pressing! Its really important to help the neck band lay flat and conform to the curve of the neck band.
Optional: Topstitch next to the neckline seam (on the tee, not the neck band). You can use either a zig zag stitch, twin needle, or even a longer longer length straight stitch has worked for me! (This is also a good time to add a tag to the inside seam if you want to!)
Turtleneck
Attaching the turtleneck is pretty much exactly the same as the neck band, just a bigger size. Which is why I’m including both in one post. But for visual purposes, I’ll go through every step again.
With the right sides of the front and back tee together, sew at the shoulder seams 1/4″ from the raw edge, using either a zig zag stitch or serger. Press the seams either open or towards the back.
Optional: If your knit is lightweight and drapey, attach light knit fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the turtlenecks so that it is less floppy and more stable.
Match up the two shorter edges of your turtleneck band with right sides together, and sew 1/4″ from the raw edge.
Press the seam either open or flat.
Fold the band in half width ways with wrong sides together and the raw edges touching.
Make sure you mark Center Back (the seam of the turtleneck), Center Front (half wayfrom CB), and the two notches on the pattern which are the shoulder seams.
Also make sure you have Center Front and Center Back marked on your tee.
Turn your tee inside out so wrong side of the fabric is facing out. Slide the turtleneck inside the neckline.
Match up the four notches of the turtleneck to the four points of the neckline. NOTE: I accidentally lined up the turtleneck seam to the shoulder seam here. The turtleneck seam should be lined up with your tee’s Center Back. The two notches from the pattern match up with the shoulder seams. (This is the one thing that is different than the crew neckband. The neckband seam lines up with the shoulder, the turtleneck seam lines up with center back).
Pin in place around the neckline. The turtleneck will be slightly smaller than the neckline.
Sew 1/4″ from the raw edge around the neckline using either a zig zag stitch or serger, stretching the band slightly as you go so that the raw edges line up.
Press the neck band up away from the tee, wit the seam allowance pressed in towards the tee.
Optional: topstitch next to the neckline seam (on the tee, not the neck band). You can use either a zig zag stitch, twin needle
Here you can see the difference between two versions I’ve made. The green knit is more stable, so the turtleneck stands up better. The yellow knit is lighter weight so the turtleneck drapes more. Both look great, just depends on what look you want!
LOOKING FOR MORE ROWAN POSTS?
- Sewalong : Crew Neck Band and Turtleneck (this post!)
- Sewalong : V-neck Band
- Sewalong : Sleeves and Side Seams
- Sewalong : Bodysuit Leg Openings
- Sewalong : Hem
- Sewing Technique : Lettuce Hem
- Sewing Technique : Shell Tuck Stitch / Scallop Edge
- Hack : Sleeveless with Sleeve Bands
- Hack : Fully Enclosed Sleeveless
- Hack: Sleeve Ties
- Hack : Square Neckline
- Hack : Cinched Side Seams
- Hack : Ruffle Shoulders
- Hack : Maxi Dress
- Hack : Scoop Neckline
- Hack : Bodycon Dress
- Hack : Tiered Dress
- Tutorial : Lengthen or Shorten
- Tutorial : 3 Ways To Sew a Ringer Tee
- Rowan Inspiration and Ideas
- Rowan Tester Round Up
- Rowan Curve Tester Round Up
- Rowan Curve Maker Round Up
DON’T HAVE THE PATTERN YET?
