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MN2007 River / Sewalongs

River Sewalong: Flat raglan sleeve insertion & side seams

lat sleeve insertion method on the River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Let’s get those sleeves on your River top or dress! Here, I’m going to show you flat raglan sleeve insertion, which is the method used in the pattern instructions and can be used for all views. Both woven and knit.

Note – some have found there to be a little too much bulk at the underarm when making the woven versions with this method, so tomorrow I’ll also be showing you a secondary method for attaching the sleeves. But know that the method described here can be used for all. It’s super easy, so read on and see if it’s the method you want to use!

lat sleeve insertion method on the River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Start by placing the v neck dress piece facing you, right side up. Place a sleeve piece on top of that, right side down, so the notches line up. Pin in place.

lat sleeve insertion method on the River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Sew 5/8” from the edge and finish the raw edge with your preferred method. I use a serger, but you could also use pinking shears, a zig zag stitch, etc.

lat sleeve insertion method on the River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Repeat with the other sleeve on the other side.

Press the sleeves open with the seam allowance pressed towards the sleeve.

lat sleeve insertion method on the River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Now your sleeves are right side up. Place the rounded neck pattern piece right side down on top of that, lining up the double notches.

Sew 5/8” from the edge and finish the raw edge with your preferred method.

lat sleeve insertion method on the River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Repeat again with the last sleeve seam. Press flat with seam allowance towards the sleeves.

It will look like the above photo when laying open and flat.

lat sleeve insertion method on the River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Now that the sleeves are on, we can sew the underarm and side seam all at once. Fold the garment so that right sides are together and the side seams line up.

If you are making view B (woven dress), your pockets will line up too.

Pin everything in place, from the edge of the sleeve to the bottom of the top/dress.

lat sleeve insertion method on the River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary
lat sleeve insertion method on the River pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Sew 5/8” from the edge, all the way around from the sleeves and down the side seam in one continuous line.

For view B (woven dress. shown here), sew 5/8” from the edge starting at the sleeve, pivot when you get to the pocket, go all the way around the pocket, pivot again and finish down the side seam. All in one continuous line.

Press the seam (and pockets) towards whatever side you are using as the front.


LOOKING FOR MORE RIVER POSTS?

Here’s the full list of River posts and tutorials:

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About Author

Holly writes part time for the Megan Nielsen blog– sewing like crazy, creating tutorials and sewalongs. She has been sewing since she was a little girl, and has her degree in apparel design. Now she’s a stay at home mama, and spends all her free nap times at her sewing machine.

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