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MN2208 Dawn / MN2211 Ash / Sewalongs

Ash & Dawn Jeans Sewalong // back pockets, yoke, and back seam

Ash & Dawn How to Back Pockets

Hello again, everyone! Today we’ll be working on the backside of our Ash jeans and Dawn jeans. And that consists of the back pockets, yoke, and back seam. I’ve used the Ash jeans in this tutorial, but the steps for Dawn are exactly the same so you can follow along with both patterns.

Let’s talk about those back pockets for a minute, though. I know Meg worked really hard to get the perfect placement for those babies. Mine were straight off the pattern markings, and ended up being perfect. Just look at those bad boys! But if you’re worried about their placement,  with every person being their own shape in size,  it may be worth testing out before making your final stitches. Try basting them on first to test out the placement. In general, you should want them centered in the fullest part of your bum, and the bottom edge should end right at the end of your bum – where it meets your leg.

With that in mind, let’s see how we go about attaching them, ok?

// BACK POCKETS //

how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Begin by folding in the top edges of the back pockets by 3/8”, and then again by another 3/8” so that the raw edge is encased. (there are notches on the pattern piece to help you).

Press.

how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

On the right side of the fabric, use topstitching thread to stitch 1/16” from the edge. Stitch another line 1/4” away from the first line, making sure you are catching the folded in edge on the inside as you do so.

Also, if you want to do any decorative topstitching on your back pockets, now would be the time to do so – before you attach them to the jeans!

how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Fold in the remaining edges by 5/8”. I suggest starting with the longer sides, and then the two lower edges. Make sure everything is even, and your keeping that pointed shape at the bottom. I then used pins to keep everything in place for now.

how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Now you need to know where to place the pockets on the back jeans pieces.  This is really important to get correct! You don’t want pockets too high or too low, or uneven or crooked. And like I mentioned before, if you’re worried the placement might be all wrong for your shape, then play around a bit and test out whats best for you. Just remember to keep them even!

So we need to transfer marks for all the corners of the pocket from the guide on the back pattern piece. There are many ways to do this – tailors chalk, pins, carbon paper and wheel, etc. I’m going to show you how to use a needle and thread, or a tailors tack.

Place your pattern piece back on top of your fabric, making sure it is lined up perfectly. Pin in place if you have to. Thread a sewing needle with contrasting thread. Take small stitches at each point of the pocket, right through the pattern paper. You can do one single stitch, or two to make sure it doesn’t come out easily. Whatever you do, leave an inch or so of thread on either side when you snip.

Carefully tear away and remove the pattern paper, and you’re left with you’re thread markings!

how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Place your back pocket on top of your markings and pin in place. Once its pinned and lined up perfectly, you can remove your thread markings.

how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Using topstitching thread, stitch around the outer edge of the pocket 1/16” from the edge, and then again 1/4” away from the first line.

Don’t backstitch with your topstitching. Instead, use needle to pull the top threads to the inside and knot.

// YOKE //

how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Now you can attach the yoke!

With right sides together, place your yoke pieces on top of your back pieces, matching up the notches. Make sure you have the correct edge of the yoke lined up – not the edge that is stay stitched! Pin in place.

how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

With regular thread, sew in place 5/8” from the edge.

Finish the raw edge with your preferred method.

how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Press the seam down towards the pocket.

how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Switch back to topstitching thread. On the right side of the garment, stitch along the back piece, close to the yoke seam (1/16”). Stitch again 1/4” away from the first line.

BACK SEAM

how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Now you can put the back pieces together! Place the two back pieces on top of each other, right sides together. Line up the center back, and make sure the yoke seam  and notches match up.

Using regular thread, sew 5/8” from the edge. Then finish the raw edge with your preferred method.

how to sew the back pockets, yoke, and back seam on the Ash jeans pattern // tutorial on Megan Nielsen Design Diary

Now back to topstitching thread.

Press the seam towards the left leg. From the right side of the fabric, topstitch along the center back on the left side of the seam, 1/6” from the seam. Stitch again 1/4” away from the first line.

// LOOKING FOR MORE ASH POSTS? //

Here’s the full list of Ash posts and tutorials:

Ash Jeans Don’t have the Ash sewing pattern yet?! Order Ash today ! We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNash and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!Order Ash

// LOOKING FOR MORE DAWN POSTS? //

Here’s the full list of posts and tutorials that can be used for both the Dawn and Ash jeans:

And here are the new posts to help you specifically with Dawn:

Megan Nielsen Dawn rigid jeans sewing pattern set // vintage inspired rigid jean with four views, multiple lengths and multiple fly options!Don’t have the Dawn sewing pattern yet?! Order Dawn today ! We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNdawn and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!

Order Dawn

About Author

Holly writes part time for the Megan Nielsen blog– sewing like crazy, creating tutorials and sewalongs. She has been sewing since she was a little girl, and has her degree in apparel design. Now she’s a stay at home mama, and spends all her free nap times at her sewing machine.

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