Hello again, everyone! Today we’ll be working on the backside of our Ash jeans and Dawn jeans. And that consists of the back pockets, yoke, and back seam. I’ve used the Ash jeans in this tutorial, but the steps for Dawn are exactly the same so you can follow along with both patterns.
Let’s talk about those back pockets for a minute, though. I know Meg worked really hard to get the perfect placement for those babies. Mine were straight off the pattern markings and ended up being perfect. Just look at those bad boys! But if you’re worried about their placement, with every person being their own shape in size, it may be worth testing out before making your final stitches. Try basting them on first to test out the placement. In general, you should want them centred in the fullest part of your bum, and the bottom edge should end right at the end of your bum – where it meets your leg.
With that in mind, let’s see how we go about attaching them, ok?
Begin by folding in the top edges of the back pockets by 3/8”, and then again by another 3/8” so that the raw edge is encased. (there are notches on the pattern piece to help you).
On the right side of the fabric, use topstitching thread to stitch 1/16” from the edge. Stitch another line 1/4” away from the first line, making sure you are catching the folded-in edge on the inside as you do so.
Also, if you want to do any decorative topstitching on your back pockets, now would be the time to do so – before you attach them to the jeans!
Fold in the remaining edges by 5/8”. I suggest starting with the longer sides, and then the two lower edges. Make sure everything is even, and you are keeping that pointed shape at the bottom. I then used pins to keep everything in place for now.
Now you need to know where to place the pockets on the back jeans pieces. This is really important to get correct! You don’t want pockets too high or too low, or uneven or crooked. And like I mentioned before, if you’re worried the placement might be all wrong for your shape, then play around a bit and test out what’s best for you. Just remember to keep them even!
So we need to transfer marks for all the corners of the pocket from the guide on the back pattern piece. There are many ways to do this – tailor’s chalk, pins, carbon paper and wheel, etc. I’m going to show you how to use a needle and thread, or a tailor’s tack.
Place your pattern piece back on top of your fabric, making sure it is lined up perfectly. Pin in place if you have to. Thread a sewing needle with contrasting thread. Take small stitches at each point of the pocket, right through the pattern paper. You can do one single stitch, or two to make sure it doesn’t come out easily. Whatever you do, leave an inch or so of thread on either side when you snip.
Carefully tear away and remove the pattern paper, and you’re left with your thread markings!
Place your back pocket on top of your markings and pin in place. Once it’s pinned and lined up perfectly, you can remove your thread markings.
Using topstitching thread, stitch around the outer edge of the pocket 1/16” from the edge, and then again 1/4” away from the first line.
Don’t backstitch with your topstitching. Instead, use a needle to pull the top threads to the inside and knot.
Now you can attach the yoke!
With right sides together, place your yoke pieces on top of your back pieces, matching up the notches. Make sure you have the correct edge of the yoke lined up – not the edge that is stay stitched! Pin in place.
With regular thread, sew in place 5/8” from the edge.
Finish the raw edge with your preferred method.
Press the seam down towards the pocket.
Switch back to topstitching thread. On the right side of the garment, stitch along the back piece, close to the yoke seam (1/16”). Stitch again 1/4” away from the first line.
Now you can put the back pieces together! Place the two back pieces on top of each other, right sides together. Line up the centre back, and make sure the yoke seam and notches match up.
Using regular thread, sew 5/8” from the edge. Then finish the raw edge with your preferred method.
Now back to the topstitching thread.
Press the seam towards the left leg. From the right side of the fabric, topstitch along the centre back on the left side of the seam, 1/6” from the seam. Stitch again 1/4” away from the first line.
LOOKING FOR MORE ASH AND DAWN POSTS?
Here is the full list of Dawn and Ash jeans posts:
- Where to buy jeans making supplies
- How to adjust rise
- How to lengthen or shorten the inseam
- How to sew flat felled seams
- Fly front
- How to sew a button fly
- How to sew an exposed button fly
- Front pockets
- How to finish pocket bags with french seams
- Back pockets, yoke, and back seam (this post!)
- Inseam and side seams
- Belt loops and waistband
- Buttonhole and hem
- How to install rivets and jeans buttons
- How to distress denim
- Tips for embroidering jeans
We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNdawn or #MNash and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!