Hello friends! I have a fun little bonus tutorial for you today that works for both the Dawn and Ash jeans. There were quite a few requests for tips on how to get a cleaner finish on the pocket bags. So today we’re going to go over how to finish those bottom edges with french seams!
If you’ve ever sewn any kind of french seam, this is the same exact concept. It’s going to create a pretty and clean finish along the edge, where the raw edge of the fabric is complete enclosed. It gives a nice little professional looking touch.
Are you ready to see what I mean? Let’s get to it!
So at this point, your jeans should look something like this. You have already attached the coin pocket, attached the pocket facings to the pocket bags, attached the pocket bags to the jeans, and topstitched. If you need help walking through these steps, you can find the sewalong post here.
Now, normally, and as described in the instructions for Dawn and Ash, you would fold the pocket bag in half with wrong sides together, stitch 5/8″ from the edge, and finish the raw edge. This is what it looks like finished that way:
Here’s an example of a pair of Ash jeans with pocket bags finished following the instructions.
And now let’s discuss how to finish them with a french seam, instead…
Instead of folding the pocket bag in half with wrong sides together, you will want to fold it in half with right sides together. To do this you’ll have to kind of maneuver the pocket bag over to the side.
Align the outer edge and bottom curved edge. Pin along the bottom curved edge only.
Sew along the bottom curved edge only, 3/8″ from the raw edge.
Trim back the seam allowance to 1/8″.
Flip the pocket bag back around so the wrong sides are back together. Re-shape the curve of the bottom and press well.
Now stitch again 1/4″ from the curved edge. This will encase the raw edge on the inside.
That’s it! Repeat for the other side, and you have some super neat and clean, fancy pocket bags!
You can now continue on with the instructions – basting the pocket bags to the side seam and waist.
// LOOKING FOR MORE ASH AND DAWN POSTS? //
Here is the full list of Dawn and Ash jeans posts:
- Where to buy jeans making supplies
- How to adjust rise
- How to lengthen or shorten the inseam
- How to sew flat felled seams
- Fly front
- How to sew a button fly
- How to sew an exposed button fly
- Front pockets
- How to finish pocket bags with french seams (this post!)
- Back pockets, yoke, and back seam
- Inseam and side seams
- Belt loops and waistband
- Buttonhole and hem
- How to install rivets and jeans buttons
- How to distress denim
- Tips for embroidering jeans
Don’t have the Ash and Dawn sewing pattern yet?! Order Ash and Dawn today ! We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNash and #MNdawn and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!