Now that we have covered the (actually not really that) scary part – the fly front or button fly – we can move on to the next step in our Ash jeans and Dawn jeans construction. The front pockets!
Don’t forget that you can use any cotton or lightweight fabric you have in your stash for the pocket linings. This is the fun part! A sneaky little way to personalize your jeans, even if you can’t see them from the outside.
Just like in the last step, you’ll be switching between regular thread and topstitching thread, and I’ll let you know in each step which to use.
Ready to go?
We’re going to start with the coin pocket. Fold under the top edge by 3/8” and the again another 3/8”, encasing the raw edge. Press.
With topstitching thread, topstitch on the right side of the coin pocket 1/16” from the top edge. Topstitch another row 1/4” away from that, making sure you are catching the folded in edge.
Note – there is only one coin pocket. The above photo is just to show you what the front and backside look like.
Fold in 5/8” along the left side straight edge. Press.
With both right sides facing up, place the coin pocket on top of the right pocket facing. There are notches on the pocket facing to get the placement correct.
Still using topstitching thread, topstitch along the left straight edge of the coin pocket, 1/16” from the edge. Start from the bottom edge going towards the top. When you reach the very top line of horizontal topstitching, pivot and sew 1/4”. Pivot again, and sew back down the coin pocket, 1/4” away from the first line of stitching. Now you have 2 parallel lines of topstitching.
Finish the raw edges of both the right pocket facing/coin pocket and the left pocket facing along the curved edges. You can use a serger, zig-zag stitch, pinking shears, etc.
Your pocket bags can be cut out of any scrap fabric you have. This is one of those hidden details that can make your jeans unique!
Place your pocket bags right side down. With wrong sides together, pin your pocket facings to the pocket bags, matching up the side seam and waistline notches.
Now using regular thread, sew the pocket facings to the pocket bags, all the way around the facings, 1/4” from the edge.
Place your jeans’ front in front of you with the right side facing up.
Place one of your pocket bags on top of the front of the jeans, with the right side up. Line up the pocket opening and pin.
With regular thread, sew along the pocket opening 3/8” from the raw edge.
Clip into the seam allowance at the curve. Make sure not to clip through the stitches.
Repeat with the second pocket bag on the other side.
Turn the pocket bags around to the inside. Press the pocket opening flat, making sure that the pocket bag isn’t seen from the outside.
Switch to topstitching thread. On the right side of the garment, topstitch along the pocket opening 1/16” from the edge. And then again 1/4” away from the first line of stitches.
Flip your jeans front over so you’re now looking at the wrong side. Fold the pocket bags in half so that the straight edges lines up with the side seams and the notches match up.
Along the bottom edge, sew the pocket bag together 5/8” from the raw edge using regular thread. Finish the raw edge with your preferred method.
If you use a serger like above, use a large needle to thread the tail end back through the overlock stitches so that it doesn’t unravel!
Repeat for the other side.
Using regular thread, staystitch along the side seam and waistline 1/2” from the raw edge, holding the pocket bag in place. Do this for both sides.
LOOKING FOR MORE ASH AND DAWN POSTS?
Here is the full list of Dawn and Ash jeans posts:
- Where to buy jeans making supplies
- How to adjust rise
- How to lengthen or shorten the inseam
- How to sew flat felled seams
- Fly front
- How to sew a button fly
- How to sew an exposed button fly
- Front pockets (this post!)
- How to finish pocket bags with french seams
- Back pockets, yoke, and back seam
- Inseam and side seams
- Belt loops and waistband
- Buttonhole and hem
- How to install rivets and jeans buttons
- How to distress denim
- Tips for embroidering jeans
We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNdawn or #MNash and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!