It’s time to put the front and back pieces together on our jeans by sewing the inseam and side seams! Whether you’re making the Ash or Dawn jeans these steps are perfect for both patterns! They’re going to finally start to resemble pants haha.
So these steps are pretty straightforward as far as construction. But it’s also really important because this is the step where you will be trying your jeans on and checking for fit. So this is also the step where you will make any fit adjustments. It’s important to remember that Ash is a very fitted style in the waist and hips, and they will probably be a little extra tight at this stage. Similarly with Dawn, using a rigid, vintage-style denim means they will be quite stiff at the start. So remember that when you are determining fit, they will most likely loosen up a bit with wear.
Okie dokie, let’s get going…
Place the jeans front and jeans back on top of each other, right sides together. Make sure that the centre front and centre back seams line up, and the notches match up as well. Pin in place.
With regular thread, sew 5/8” from the edge (you will need to stretch the back inseam slightly to match up with the front).
Finish the raw edge with your preferred method. Press the seam towards the front.
Flip your jeans to the outside, and change your thread to topstitching thread.
Topstitch close to the inseam, of the front jeans piece, 1/6” from the seam. Stitch all the way around – from ankle, around the crotch, and back down to the other ankle. Then topstitch a second line 1/4” away from the first.
Now flip your jeans inside out again. Line up the side seams, matching up notches. Pin in place. Now, only baste together 5/8” from the edge.
We’re only basting the side seams together because this is the best time to fit your jeans. Once you have them basted, turn right aide around and try them on. Remember, they should fit quite snugly, because they will most likely stretch with wear. So now you can take note of any place along the side seam that you need to take them in more, or let them out. Maybe in the waist, hip, knee, etc. For example, I needed to let mine out just a tiny bit (1/8” on each side) at the hip only.
Once you figure out your final adjustments, you can sew a final line of stitching down the side seam with a regular stitch. Finish the raw edge with your preferred method.
Press the seam towards the back of the garment.
Turn your jeans right side out. With one of your side seams facing you, find the bottom of the pocket bag, and mark with a pin from the outside. Do the same thing on the other side seam.
Switch to topstitching thread. Sew along the side seam, on the back jeans side, 1/16” from the seam. Stop at your pin marking.
Sew a bar tack along the bottom of this line of topstitching.
Remember, a bar tack is a series of tight zig-zag stitching, and we went over it when we did the fly front.
LOOKING FOR MORE ASH AND DAWN POSTS?
Here is the full list of Dawn and Ash jeans posts:
- Where to buy jeans making supplies
- How to adjust rise
- How to lengthen or shorten the inseam
- How to sew flat felled seams
- Fly front
- How to sew a button fly
- How to sew an exposed button fly
- Front pockets
- How to finish pocket bags with french seams
- Back pockets, yoke, and back seam
- Inseam and side seams (this post!)
- Belt loops and waistband
- Buttonhole and hem
- How to install rivets and jeans buttons
- How to distress denim
- Tips for embroidering jeans
We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNdawn or #MNash and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!