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Hovea Sewalong: How to make and sew bias binding

Basic Binding Method

Before we get started on the construction of our Hovea jackets, we’re going to go over the Basic Binding method used to bind the edges and seams of views B, D, and F. Instead of repeating the same steps over and over again in each post for every edge that needs binding, I’m just going to go over everything in this post all at once for you to come back and reference. Sound good?

Ok! So first I’ll go over how to make your bias strips if you would like (you can also use pre-made binding if you would like), and then the steps for sewing the binding on. Let’s get stated!

// MAKING YOUR BIAS BINDING //

There are actually many ways to make bias binding. I’m going to show you one example here.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsLay out the fabric that you are going to use to make your bias binding. Flat and a single layer.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsYou need to find the bias of the fabric, which is at a 45 degree angle from the selvage.

To do this, pick up one corner of your fabric, and fold over to form a triangle. The fold that is created is the 45 degree angle, as shown here with the red line. Find a way to mark this – either with a marking tool or by pressing with an iron to crease.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsHere you can see I’ve marked that first 45 degree angle line with tailors chalk.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsFor Hovea, we need our bias binding tape to be 2″ wide. So continue to draw line parallel to that first 45 degree angle line, 2″ apart.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsYou can now cut along these lines, using either scissors or a rotary cutter, to create strips of fabric.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsNext we need to join each strip to make one long strip. You can technically join the bias strips with the angled edges, but I prefer to square them off. So I cut straight across each end to create a 90 degree angle.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsWith right sides together, at the short edge, overlap two strips together at a right angle.

Sew diagonally across as shown.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsTrim back the seam allowance to 1/4″.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsPress the seam open.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsContinue doing this with each strip until you have one long continuous strip that is the length required for your size in the “cut” chart of the instruction booklet.

// BASICS OF SEWING BIAS BINDING //

The binding method for all seams and outer edges of the garment is technically the same.  I’m going to show you all the basics of how its done on an outer edge as the example here first, and then afterwards show you tips for binding an inner seam as well.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsPlace the binding right sides together with the edge to be bound, pinning as you go.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsIf you are binding a curved edge, carefully ease the binding around the curved edge.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsSew 3/8” (1cm) from the Raw edge through the quilted panels and binding.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsPress the binding and the seam allowance away from the garment (seen here from the wrong side of the fabric).

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsWorking on the wrong side of the panel, fold the raw edge of the bias binding under by roughly 3/8” and place over the seam allowance to enclose the raw edge.

Ensure that the inside folded edge of the bias binding extends very slightly beyond the original stitching.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsPin as you go.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsNow there are two options for finish your binding.

You can either hand sew the binding closed on the wrong side of garment using an invisible slipstitch (as I’m doing here).

Or

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen Patterns how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsOr you can topstitch along the binding from the right side of the garment, close to the seam.

(If you do this, I would carefully move your pins one by one from the wrong side of the garment to the right side).

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsAs you do this, you should be catching the underside of the binding on the wrong side of the garment, close to the edge.

// TIPS FOR SEWING BIAS BINDING TO SEAMS (where there is more bulk) //

Ok, now that I’ve show you the basics, let me share some other tips for when you bind inner seams (shoulder, seams, side seams, armholes). The process is the same, just a few things to mention….

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen Patterns how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsAfter sewing a seam (here I’m showing a shoulder seam), attach binding as mentioned above by sewing 3/8″ from the edge.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsYour seam will be sewn at 5/8″ and your binding will be sewn on at 3/8″ so you can see here that you have two different stitch lines. The blue arrow is the seam, and the red arrow is where you’ve stitched on the binding strip.

**So if you would like your binding to align perfectly with the internal seamlines  for these areas, we recommend trimming back the seams by 1/4″ (6mm) before attaching binding.

I am going to continue this tutorial without trimming, though, so the binding and seamlines do not align.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsWhen sewing two quilted panels together we recommend grading back the binding seam allowance and seam allowance of one of the quilted panels to reduce bulk.

You don’t usually need to do this with most outer edges because its not as bulky, just with inner seams.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsWhen you press the binding strip and seam allowance away from the garment, you can again see that original stitch line of the seam (blue arrow).

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsWhen you fold the bias binding under and over, you are lining it up with the 3/8″ stitching, not the 5/8″ seam.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsFinish it off as usual with either topstitching or handstitching as mentioned above.

// TWO WAYS TO JOIN BINDING AROUND CONTINUOUS EDGES //

Another thing to mention – when binding continuous edges such as the neckline, armhole and sleeve hem, you will need to join the ends of your binding. before sewing. There are two ways to do this.

Option 1:

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsFold back the short edge of the binding at the beginning b4 about 1/4″…

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen Patterns how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen Patternsand overlap the end over that folded end. Sew your 3/8″ now as usual.

Option 2:

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsOr, after you pin all around the continuous edge, as you come back around to the beginning, removea pin or two from either side.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsPinch the two ends of the binding strip together so that they line up with the edge of the fabric.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsPin or mark where they line up.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsStitch together and trim back any extra seam allowance.

how to make bias binding for the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsPress the seam open, and then re-pin to the edge of the fabric.

That’s a wrap for now on the Basic Binding Method! Be sure to bookmark this page and come back to it as we make our way through the rest of our Hovea sewalong. As always, if you have any questions be sure to let us know in the comments!


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About Author

Holly writes part time for the Megan Nielsen blog– sewing like crazy, creating tutorials and sewalongs. She has been sewing since she was a little girl, and has her degree in apparel design. Now she’s a stay at home mama, and spends all her free nap times at her sewing machine.

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Merrily
Merrily
2 months ago

I am very much a beginner but I just bought the pattern for this jacket because it is beautiful. However, I have never made my own bias before and I am confused by the amount of fabric I need to buy to reach the yardage on the pattern. If I need 9 1/8 yards 2″ bias then how much yardage of fabric should I buy?

Meg
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Meg
1 month ago
Reply to  Merrily

Hi Merrily!

If you are making your own bias binding we recommend buying 1/2 yard of 60″ wide fabric or 5/8 yard of 45″ fabric. I hope that helps!