Before we get started on the construction of our Hovea jackets, we’re going to go over the Basic Binding method used to bind the edges and seams of views B, D, and F. Instead of repeating the same steps over and over again in each post for every edge that needs binding, I’m just going to go over everything in this post all at once for you to come back and reference. Sound good?
Ok! So first I’ll go over how to make your bias strips if you would like (you can also use pre-made binding if you would like), and then the steps for sewing the binding on. Let’s get stated!
// MAKING YOUR BIAS BINDING //
There are actually many ways to make bias binding. I’m going to show you one example here.
Lay out the fabric that you are going to use to make your bias binding. Flat and a single layer.
You need to find the bias of the fabric, which is at a 45 degree angle from the selvage.
To do this, pick up one corner of your fabric, and fold over to form a triangle. The fold that is created is the 45 degree angle, as shown here with the red line. Find a way to mark this – either with a marking tool or by pressing with an iron to crease.
Here you can see I’ve marked that first 45 degree angle line with tailors chalk.
For Hovea, we need our bias binding tape to be 2″ wide. So continue to draw line parallel to that first 45 degree angle line, 2″ apart.
You can now cut along these lines, using either scissors or a rotary cutter, to create strips of fabric.
Next we need to join each strip to make one long strip. You can technically join the bias strips with the angled edges, but I prefer to square them off. So I cut straight across each end to create a 90 degree angle.
With right sides together, at the short edge, overlap two strips together at a right angle.
Sew diagonally across as shown.
Trim back the seam allowance to 1/4″.
Press the seam open.
Continue doing this with each strip until you have one long continuous strip that is the length required for your size in the “cut” chart of the instruction booklet.
// BASICS OF SEWING BIAS BINDING //
The binding method for all seams and outer edges of the garment is technically the same. I’m going to show you all the basics of how its done on an outer edge as the example here first, and then afterwards show you tips for binding an inner seam as well.
Place the binding right sides together with the edge to be bound, pinning as you go.
If you are binding a curved edge, carefully ease the binding around the curved edge.
Sew 3/8” (1cm) from the Raw edge through the quilted panels and binding.
Press the binding and the seam allowance away from the garment (seen here from the wrong side of the fabric).
Working on the wrong side of the panel, fold the raw edge of the bias binding under by roughly 3/8” and place over the seam allowance to enclose the raw edge.
Ensure that the inside folded edge of the bias binding extends very slightly beyond the original stitching.
Pin as you go.
Now there are two options for finish your binding.
You can either hand sew the binding closed on the wrong side of garment using an invisible slipstitch (as I’m doing here).
Or you can topstitch along the binding from the right side of the garment, close to the seam.
(If you do this, I would carefully move your pins one by one from the wrong side of the garment to the right side).
As you do this, you should be catching the underside of the binding on the wrong side of the garment, close to the edge.
// TIPS FOR SEWING BIAS BINDING TO SEAMS (where there is more bulk) //
Ok, now that I’ve show you the basics, let me share some other tips for when you bind inner seams (shoulder, seams, side seams, armholes). The process is the same, just a few things to mention….
After sewing a seam (here I’m showing a shoulder seam), attach binding as mentioned above by sewing 3/8″ from the edge.
Your seam will be sewn at 5/8″ and your binding will be sewn on at 3/8″ so you can see here that you have two different stitch lines. The blue arrow is the seam, and the red arrow is where you’ve stitched on the binding strip.
**So if you would like your binding to align perfectly with the internal seamlines for these areas, we recommend trimming back the seams by 1/4″ (6mm) before attaching binding.
I am going to continue this tutorial without trimming, though, so the binding and seamlines do not align.
When sewing two quilted panels together we recommend grading back the binding seam allowance and seam allowance of one of the quilted panels to reduce bulk.
You don’t usually need to do this with most outer edges because its not as bulky, just with inner seams.
When you press the binding strip and seam allowance away from the garment, you can again see that original stitch line of the seam (blue arrow).
When you fold the bias binding under and over, you are lining it up with the 3/8″ stitching, not the 5/8″ seam.
Finish it off as usual with either topstitching or handstitching as mentioned above.
// TWO WAYS TO JOIN BINDING AROUND CONTINUOUS EDGES //
Another thing to mention – when binding continuous edges such as the neckline, armhole and sleeve hem, you will need to join the ends of your binding. before sewing. There are two ways to do this.
Fold back the short edge of the binding at the beginning b4 about 1/4″…
and overlap the end over that folded end. Sew your 3/8″ now as usual.
Or, after you pin all around the continuous edge, as you come back around to the beginning, removea pin or two from either side.
Pinch the two ends of the binding strip together so that they line up with the edge of the fabric.
Pin or mark where they line up.
Stitch together and trim back any extra seam allowance.
Press the seam open, and then re-pin to the edge of the fabric.
That’s a wrap for now on the Basic Binding Method! Be sure to bookmark this page and come back to it as we make our way through the rest of our Hovea sewalong. As always, if you have any questions be sure to let us know in the comments!
| LOOKING FOR MORE HOVEA POSTS? |
Here’s the full list of Hovea inspiration and ideas:
- Inspiration & Ideas for Hovea
- Hovea Tester Roundup
- Hovea Curve Tester Roundup
- Hovea Planning Template
- Traditional Korean Textile Arts with Youngmin Lee
- Beginner Quilting concepts with The Weekend Quilter
- Top 10 tips from a quilters first journey into Me Made Clothing with Shannon Fraser
- Introduction to Indian Kantha Quilting with Manjari Singh
- Simple Log Cabin patchwork tutorial with Scribbly Gum Quilting Co
- Wholecloth quilting with Natalie Ebaugh
- Introduction to Japanese textiles and embroidery with Mari Yamada
- How to make a patchwork quilt design without a pattern with Broadcloth Studio
- Modern Quilting with Porfiria Gomez
- Making a patchwork jacket with leftover fabric
Here’s the full list of Hovea tutorials & Hacks:
- Sewalong | How to Choose Between Hovea & Hovea Curve
- Sewalong | Common Hovea pattern alterations
- Sewalong | Quilting prep
- Sewalong | Quilting Design & Planning
- Sewalong | Machine quilting
- Sewalong | Tips for making a patchwork jacket from scrap fabrics
- Sewalong | Basic Binding Method for quilt coats (this post!)
- Sewalong | Pockets and Seams Quilted Views BDF
- Sewalong | Inset Sleeves Quilted Views BDF
- Sewalong | Final Finishes Quilted View BDF
- Sewalong | Tips for Hand Quilting
- Pattern Hack | Tips for making Hovea reversible
- Pattern Hack | Sewing a Hovea Dressing gown
- Pattern Hack | How to make a quilt coat from a vintage bed quilt
- Sewalong | Unlined pockets Views ACE
- Sewalong | Lined pockets Views ACE
- Sewalong | Flat Sleeve Insertion Views ACE
- Sewalong | Ties & Hang Loop Views ACE
- Sewalong | Hemming Unlined Views ACE
- Sewalong | Full Lining Views ACE
- Sewalong | Collar band Views ACE
- Sewalong | Belt & Belt Loops Views ACE
Don’t have the pattern yet?!