It’s time to go over the two-piece version of the Cottesloe swimsuit! The bikini construction is actually very basic construction, basically just sewing seams together. So I’ll also go into more in-depth, showing you both the low rise and high waisted bottoms – one unlined with gusset, one fully lined. And I’ll also show you the optional lining for the top, as well. It’s a bit of repetitive info from the previous posts for View A & View B, but that way if you are making a bikini, you have all the info in this post, and you won’t have to go back and forth the reference others! I hope that’s helpful.
So we will go over construction today and then go over elastic insertion and the optional waistband and underband in separate posts later on. Ok? Let’s do it!
BIKINI TOP
Place your Front and Back bikini top pieces together with right sides together. Line up the shoulder seams and side seams, and pin in place.
Sew the seams 1/4″ from the raw edges using a zig-zag stitch or serger/overlock.
OPTIONAL BIKINI TOP LINING
If you would like to line your bikini top, cut both the front and back pattern pieces from swimsuit lining fabric.
Note: If you would like to add foam cups to your bikini lining, that is the only thing I didn’t include in this post. See the ‘optional foam cups’ section of the View A post for those steps. Add the foam cups before constructing your lining and attaching it to the main fabric.
Place your front and back lining together with right sides together. Line up the shoulder seams and side seams, pin in place, and sew together 1/4″ from the raw edges using a zig-zag stitch or serger/overlock.
Turn your top/main fabric inside out, and the lining right side out.
Slide your bikini top inside the lining.
Match up the neckline, armhole, and bottom edges and pin the main fabric and lining together.
This will now be treated as one piece of fabric and ready for elastic insertion.
Optional: you could also sew the main fabric and lining together along all these openings to better secure the two. Use a zig-zag stitch or serger/overlock along the very edge of the fabrics (if using a serger, don’t cut off any seam allowance).
UNLINED BIKINI BOTTOMS WITH GUSSET
I’m going to show you the unlined option on the low-rise bottoms. But the same steps apply to the high waist bottoms.
Note: you can use self-fabric or swimsuit lining fabric for your Gusset.
Place your bikini bottoms together with right sides together, line up and pin along the side seams.
With the back of your bottoms facing you, place the Gusset right side down on the Back and align the crotch edges. Pin together through all three layers (gusset, back, and front).
Sew the side seams and crotch seam 1/4″ from the raw edges using a zig-zag stitch or serger/overlock.
At the crotch seam, you will be sewing through 3 layers of fabric.
Flip the Gusset towards the Front of the bikini bottoms so that the right side of the gusset is now facing outwards.
Pin the Gusset to the front leg openings to keep it in place and ready for elastic insertion.
FULLY LINED BIKINI BOTTOMS
I’ll be showing the fully lined option on the high waist bikini bottoms, but the same steps apply to the low rise bottoms.
Place your Front and Back pieces together with right sides together. Line up the side seams and crotch seam (no gusset), pin in place, and sew together 1/4″ from the raw edges using a zig-zag stitch or serger/overlock.
Cut both the front and back bikini bottom pattern pieces from swimsuit lining fabric.
Place your front and back lining together with right sides together. Line up the shoulder seams and side seams, pin in place, and sew together 1/4″ from the raw edges using a zig-zag stitch or serger/overlock.
Turn your bottoms/main fabric inside out, and the lining right side out.
Slide your bikini bottoms inside the lining.
Match up the waist edge and leg openings, and pin the main fabric and lining together.
This will now be treated as one piece of fabric and ready for elastic insertion.
Optional: You could also sew the main fabric and lining together along all these openings to better secure the two. Use a zig-zag stitch or serger/overlock along the very edge of the fabrics (if using a serger, don’t cut off any seam allowance).
LOOKING FOR MORE COTTESLOE POSTS?
Here’s the full list of Cottesloe posts and tutorials:
- Pattern Tester Round-up
- Inspiration + Ideas
- Where to Find Swimsuit Fabric
- View B Full Suit Construction (+ Optional Lining)
- View A Full Suit Construction with Shelf Bra and Ties
- Views C & D Bikini Construction (this post!)
- Basic Elastic Insertion for All Views
- Waistband and Underband Elastic Insertion for Views C & D
We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNcottesloe and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!
Don’t have the Cottesloe pattern yet?
