If you are making a View D Cottelsoe bikini, we are going to finish up today with the underbust band and waistband! Instead of using the thin 1/4″ elastic insertion method along the waistline and underbust like in view C, we will be inserting wider 1″ elastic inside bands which provides extra support.
You can also add a waistband to the low rise bottoms of View C using the same method I’ll show you here. Just note that the pattern piece for the view C waistband is different than the one for view D, so make sure you cut the right one.
Let’s finish this up!
Cut your 1″ elastic for the waistband and underband according to the measurements provided in the CUT section of the instructions.
Fold your waistband and underbust band each in half with right sides together, so the short ends are aligned.
Sew along the short ends 1/4″ from the raw edge using a zig zag stitch or serger/overlock.
Now overlap the cut edges of your waistband and underbust elastic by 1/2″.
Stitch the overlap together using a zig zag stitch.
Divide the elastic pieces into quarters using pins.
Divide the waistband and underbust band into quarters, as well.
Fold the waistband/underbust band in half, lining up the raw edges.
Insert the elastic inside the band, lining up the quarter pin marks. The raw edges of the band will extend slightly beyond the elastic as it sits inside, encased by the band.
Enclose the bands with the elastic inside by sewing with a zig zag stitch or serger/overlock along the raw edge.
Once again, divide your band into quarters, and your waistline or underbust into quarters.
Place the band over the bottoms or bikini top, so that the raw edges line up, the band seam matches the left side seam, and the quarter marks of the band match the quarter marks on the swimsuit.
Sew the band to the bikini by stitching 1/4″ from the raw edges using a zig zag stitch or overlock/serger.
When sewing the bands to the bikini, the elastic inside will be caught in the stitches a tiny bit. This will prevent the elastic from shifiting and twisting and will keep your band smooth and strong.
Flip the waistband away from the garment so the seams are pointing towards the garment.
Optional: topstitch next to the seam on top of the seam allowance (on the garment, not the band) using a zig zag stitch or twin needle.
The process is the same for both the bikini top and bottom. So once you’ve finished one, repeat the same steps for the other!
// LOOKING FOR MORE COTTESLOE POSTS? //
Here’s the full list of Cottesloe posts and tutorials:
- Pattern Tester Round-up
- Inspiration + Ideas
- Where to Buy Swimsuit Fabric
- View B Full Suit Construction (+ Optional Lining)
- View A Full Suit Construction with Shelf Bra and Ties
- Views C & D Bikini Construction
- Basic Elastic Insertion for All Views
- Waistband and Underband Elastic Insertion for Views C & D (this post!)
Don’t have the Cottesloe sewing pattern yet?! Order Cottesloe today! We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNcottesloe and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!