Today we will be covering all things pockets and seams in our Floreat sewalong!
First I’ll go over how to add pockets to your dress version, and how to sew the seams up around the pockets. Or are you making a blouse or pocket-less dress? I’ll go over the super simple steps for sewing up those seams second!
Important note: Again, these steps should only be done early on if you are making a sleeved dress or blouse. If you are making a sleeveless version, you can skip this post right now – we’ll go over it again when we cover how to do the sleeveless facing (post coming in a few days!).
POCKETS AND SEAMS
Let’s start with a pocket version…
First, finish the raw curved edges of all four pocket pieces using your preferred method (serger/overlock, zig zag stitch, pinking shears, etc).
Lay your front dress piece down in front of you with right side facing up. Place two of your pockets down on top, with right sides facing down (so right sides are together).
Make sure the pockets are not upside down – the curved shape should be angled down, not up.
Match up the side seam, lining up the two notches on the pocket with the two notches on the side seam of the dress. Pin in place.
Repeat the process, lining up and pinning the other two pockets to the two sides of the back dress pieces.
Your centre back may or may not be sewn already. It doesn’t matter if it is yet, it doesn’t affect these steps.
Sew all four pockets in place 1/2″ from the raw edge.
Finish the four-side seam raw edges with your preferred method.
(Make sure to do this step now! It will be difficult to do this after we move on).
For all four pockets, press the pockets and seam allowance outwards away from the dress. Understitch along the four pockets (on the pocket, not the dress), close to the seam.
Now lay your front dress piece down in front of you with right side up, and the two pockets laying out open and flat away from the dress.
Place your dress back on top of the front, with right sides together. (Your back pieces may or may not be sewn together at centre back, it doesn’t matter).
Line up the side seams and pockets, especially making sure to match up the pocket corners (where the pockets meet the dress).
Pin in place all along the side seam and dress.
Start sewing along your side seam, 5/8″ from the raw edge. Stop when you are 5/8″ below the edge of the pocket.
With your needle down, pivot towards the pocket, and continue sewing around the pocket 5/8″ from the edge.
When you get all the way around the pocket, pivot again, and sew down the rest of the side seam 5/8″ from the edge.
This is what your stitching will look like. Side seam and pockets are sewn together all in one continuous stitch.
Now line up the shoulders and pin in place. Sew 5/8″ from the raw edge and then finish your raw edges with your preferred method.
(Again, your centre back may or may not be sewn together at this point. The order of these first few steps doesn’t really matter unless you are making a sleeveless version).
Ta-da! Seams and pockets are done!
SEAMS WITH NO POCKETS
If you’re making a blouse or dress without pockets: simply place your front and back together with right sides facing together.
Line up the side seams and pin and place…
And line up the shoulder seams and pin in place.
Sew the two side seams and two shoulder seams together 5/8″ from the raw edges. Then finish those raw edges with your preferred method.
Once more so it’s clear – only do these steps now if you are adding sleeves! If you’re making a sleeveless version, save the side seams and centre back steps until after you do the facing.
LOOKING FOR MORE FLOREAT POSTS?
Here’s the full list of Floreat posts and tutorials:
- Pattern tester round-up
- Inspiration + Ideas
- Waist tie and separate belt
- Center back: zipper and slit options
- Pockets and seams (sleeved dress and blouse versions) (this post!)
- Neckline facing (sleeved versions)
- Sleeveless version: facing and seams
- Bonus: Knit version
- Inspiration: Floreat as maternity