Hi everyone! Today we’re going to go over the construction of View A of the Axel skirt! I’ll cover how to sew the seams and that signature handkerchief hem. The waistband will be covered in a later post.
Let’s get started…
Seams
The Axel skirt is reversible, so front and back pattern pieces are identical. You will have 4 skirt panels in total.
Place two of your skirt panels together, with right sides together.
Sew the center seam 1/4″(6mm) from the raw edge (5/8″(1.5cm) if you are using the older version with letter sizes), using either a zig zag stitch or overlock/serger.
Repeat with the other two panels. Press your seams.
If using a zig zag stitch, you shouldn’t need to finish the raw edge as stretch fabrics typically don’t fray.
Open up one side, laying it down in front of you with right side facing up.
Lay the other side down on top, with right sides facing each other.
Align the side seams and sew together 1/4″(6mm) from the raw edge (5/8″(1.5cm) if you are using the older version with letter sizes) using either a zig zag stitch or overlock/serger. Press.
Hem
Before we get started with the hem, here is an overview of what we are working with. It’s basically a big square!
To hem Axel, you only need to turn under the hem once, by 1/2″(1.2cm) and press. But here’s a tip…
If you’re using scuba knit or any knit that doesn’t press well, or any knit fabric you are worried about stretching and becoming wavy, try using a fusible hem tape! There are a few different kinds out there – stitch witchery you have to sandwich in between the fabric fold before pressing to fuse. Or there is this one, here, that I use. Place the tape along one edge and press with your iron…
Then peel up the papere to expose the other side of the adhesive, turn your hem under 1/2″(1.2cm), and press again. The hem will hold in place!
Do this along one side of the ‘”square” of the hem.
Then repeat on another side, pressing on the tape, peeling up the paper…
… and pressing up again 1/2″(1.2cm).
Now your corner is held neatly in place to make it easier when stitching.
Do this around the entire hem, all four sides of the “square”, pressing up 1/2″(1.2cm).
Topstitch close to the edge using a zig- zag stitch or twin needle, around the entire hem, pivoting at the corners.
Here is my hem from the inside.
And from the outside!
LOOKING FOR MORE AXEL POSTS?
- Sewalong : View A Seams and hem (this post!)
- Sewalong : View B Sash, seams, and hem
- Sewalong : View C Seams and hem
- Sewalong : Waistband (all versions)
- Tutorial : Removing center seam View A
- Hack : Flippy Mini Skirt
- How to sew a handkerchief hem on knit fabric (another way!)
DON’T HAVE THE PATTERN YET?
