If you find yourself in the crossover 14-20 sizes and are struggling to choose between the Durban and Durban Curve patterns, today I will be sharing a visual comparison between them! Our diagrams will compare a size 18 from our 0-20 range shown in outline, to the size 18 in the Curve range as shown in green. As there are a large number of pattern pieces I have only shown the main pattern pieces as I believe these really illustrate the key differences best.
As with all of our patterns, Durban sizes 0-20 have been drafted for a 2″ (5cm) difference between the upper bust and full bust measurement. Durban Curve sizes 14-34 have been drafted for a 4” (10cm) difference between the upper bust and full bust measurement. The Curve pattern is drafted with the same style and design details but with a curvy figure in mind. In the image below you can see how that translates to the look and fit of the finished garments. We’ve compared a View A Durban & Durban Curve jumpsuit of the same size, but that are drafted for the two different cup sizes and body shapes.
The Curve pattern includes a larger dart for a better bust fit on fuller busts, as well as a narrower upper bust. The dart for the Curve pattern is a cut-out dart which reduces fabric bulk and allows the dart to sit well. It may appear that the dart apex hits at the same point for both patterns, however this is more due to the 0-20 dart being lowered for this pattern – whereas the 14-34 dart was kept in line with our block and tester preferences.
For both patterns the natural waistline should a little higher than natural waist. The Curve pattern includes a higher natural waistline, and this has the impact of a proportionately longer crotch depth. The sleeve includes more bicep ease in the Curve pattern and the armscye is slightly lower and includes more room. The sleeveless armscye for the Curve pattern is cut a little higher to provide more coverage at the side bust. The Curve back bodice also includes a lower back neckline.
When it comes to the pants, the crotch shape for the Curve pattern is more scooped out and the balance is different than the 0-20 pattern to allow for more room in the inner thigh area. In general the Curve pattern includes a little more ease in the waist, thigh and calf. The amount of ease in the hip has been kept consistent across both size ranges for tapered leg views. The wide leg view includes slightly more hip ease in the Curve pattern.
You will notice that it appears that the Curve pants are significantly shorter than the 0-20 pattern. In reality we have kept the jumpsuits as consistent as possible in overall length, however the higher waistline and greater crotch depth of the curve draft results in proportionately a shorter inseam length.
If you find yourself in the crossover of the two ranges in sizes 14-20 we recommend that you choose your pattern based on your high bust to full bust difference as well as the front and back body lengths of both patterns. These measurements are included in the size chart of each pattern.
Both patterns come with the same awesome variations and all our tutorials and add on ideas can be applied to either!
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Here’s the full list of Durban posts and tutorials:
- How to Choose Between Durban & Durban Curve (this post!)
- Durban Tester Roundup & Durban Curve Tester Roundup
- Prep, Stabilizing & Darts
- Bodice Seams & Sleeves
- Sleeveless Facings
- Combining Bodice & Pants
- Closures, Hemming & Belts
- Durban Maker Roundup
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