Hello again! Let’s make some more progress on our Reef sew! Let’s get started with the camisole facing and seams!
We will start by placing the camisole front-facing on the camisole front with right sides together. Make sure the armholes, shoulders, and neckline match up correctly.
Sew 1/4” (6mm) front the raw edge along the armholes, shoulder seams, and neckline. Be sure that you only sew over the yoke at the shoulder seams and that the rest of the yoke remains clear of the neckline and arm seams. Note: You might like to check out How to Sew the Perfect V-neck on Woven Fabrics blog post for more tips!
Trim the armhole seam allowances to 1/8” (3mm), notch, or use pinking shears. Clip the corners of the straps being careful not to cut through the stitches. Also, clip the seam allowance at the point of the V-neck. Do not clip through the stitches.
Turn the camisole front right side out by pulling the yoke pieces and pushing the facing towards the wrong side of the camisole. Press.
Cross over the yoke pieces so that the right yoke is on top and the notches line up. Sew the two yoke pieces together 1/8”(3mm) from the raw edge through all four layers.
Place the top flat with the right side facing up. Place the camisole back on top, right side down. Line up the notches on the camisole back with the notches on the yoke.
Sew 1/4” (6mm) from the raw edge. You may trim and grade the seam allowance to reduce bulk. Press the camisole back facing and seams down. If you have any basting stitches visible from the outside you may unpick them now. You may also under stitch along the top edge of the back facing to prevent it from showing from the outside if desired.
Next, you’ll fold the camisole at the shoulder seams, right sides together. We will line up the side seams with the facings opened up.
We will first baste the side seams at 5/8” (1.5cm) to ensure the fit is good.
After it is basted, try on your camisole! Make any adjustments if needed and then sew the side seams with a permanent stitch. If there’s any excess seam allowance trim it back.
Finish the raw edges of the side seams and press open or to the back.
Also, finish the raw edges of the facings. Fold the facings back down at the side seams and press down at the armhole.
Stitch in the ditch along the side seams from the armhole down. Stitch through both the camisole and facing to prevent the facing from flipping out when worn. This may also be sewn by hand if desired.
We will stop here for today and finish the camisole in the next post! All that’s left is the hem!
Happy Sewing!
Nastasia
LOOKING FOR MORE REEF POSTS?
Here’s the full list of the upcoming Reef posts and tutorials:
- How to choose between Reef & Reef Curve
- Reef Maker Roundup
- Reef Inspiration & Ideas
- Reef Tester Round-Up & Reef Curve Tester Roundup
- How to Block fuse facings
- How to Sew a Perfect V Neck on Woven Fabrics
- Sewalong | Camisole Yoke
- Sewalong | Curve Darts
- Sewalong | Camisole Facing & Seams (this post!)
- Sewalong | Camisole Hem
- Sewalong | Shorts Pockets
- Sewalong | Shorts Seams
- Sewalong | Shorts Waistband
- Sewalong | Shorts Hem
We’d love to see what you’re creating from the new Reef camisole & shorts set pattern or the new Reef Curve camisole & shorts pattern! Don’t forget to tag your creations #MNreef and @megannielsenpatterns to share what you’ve been working on, and check out what everyone else is up to!
