Who here is making the dress version of the Olive pattern? Well today is all about you, because we are going to go over how to sew in the pockets and attach the skirt! A simple gathered skirt with anchored inseam pockets – easy peasy. You got this!
To start, finished the curved edges of all four pocket pieces.
Lay one of your skirt pieces down with right side of the fabric facing up (note – I have my skirt fabric bunched up so that I could fit it all in the frame).
Place a pocket down on each side, right sides of the fabric facing the right side of the skirt. Match up the notches and line up the raw edges. Pin in place.
Sew together 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Finish the entire length of the side seam, from top to hem, with your preferred method (I used a serger).
Press the pockets and seams outward away from the skirt.
Understitch close to the seamline on the pocket.
Repeat for the other skirt piece and other two pockets.
Place the two skirt pieces on top of each other with right sides together. Align the pockets and side seams.
Also make sure the side seams are lined upnear the pocket, and the notches match up.
First, sew along the side seam from the top of the waistline down to the first notch, 5/8″ from the edge.
Then sew along the side seam from the second notch down to the bottom of the hem, 5/8″ from the edge.
Do not sew the side seam together in between the notches.
Now line up the edges of the pocket and pin.
Sew along the curved pocket edge, 5/8″ from the edge, until you hit the side seam stitching.
Press the pocket and seam toward the front of the garment, and repeat for the other side seam and pocket.
Now set your machine to the longest stitch setting, and sew two lines of basting stitches, side seam to side seam, on either side of the skirt top edge (do not stitch on the pockets). The first one 5/8″ from the raw edge, and then the other 3/8″ from the edge.
Do not cut the threads, but rather leave long thread tails.
Gently pull on the thread tails and use your fingers to gather the fabric.
Roughly gather the entire skirt.
With the skirt inside out, and the top right side out and upside down, place the top inside the skirt with right sides together.
Line up the waistline raw edges and match up the side seams.
Ease and adjust the gathers until the skirt matches up with the top waistline perfectly. Pin in place well to hold.
Once the skirt is pinned in place perfectly, flip the pockets over towards the front skirt and pin in place over top of the gathers.
Sew around the entire waistline, 5/8″ from the raw edge.
Finish the raw edge with your preferred method, and press the seam upwards toward the bodice.
And that’s it! Your bodice and skirt are attached and you have a dress!
// Looking for more Olive posts? //
- Sewalong Intro Post
- Inspiration and Ideas
- Tester Round-Up
- FBA with dart added
- Neckline Prep
- Patch Pocket
- V-Insert Option 1 (clean finish)
- V-insert Option 2 (topstitch)
- Bias Sleeve Finish
- Sleeve Bands
- Long Sleeves
- Pocket and Skirt (this post!)
- Bonus Hack – Dress ties
- Bonus Hack – Elastic Hem Cropped Top
- Bonus Hack – Shift Dress