I’ve heard from a lot of people that they find the idea of doing a bust adjustment on princess seams horrifying. Honestly, it’s actually not that different than doing a bust adjustment on a darted bodice – but personally, i feel like you get a smoother end fit with princess seams. With the release of my new Karri dress, I knew many of you would be wondering how to tackle this adjustment, and also whether in fact you actually need one. But never fear! You can do it, i promise.
Here’s the deal. Most patterns are drafted for a B cup. I know that’s probably upsetting those of you who aren’t B cups, but the unfortunate truth is that patterns need to be drafted to some sort of base standard, and most pattern companies (like mine) draft for a B cup. What does this mean for people who aren’t B cups? Well, you’ll probably need to alter your pattern to get the right fit over your bust.
So how do you know if you need to do an FBA on your pattern? There are a couple of ways you can tackle this, but here is my easy method. You know that size chart you get on the back of your pattern envelope? If you find that your bust measurement falls in a larger size column than the rest of your body – then you’ll probably need to do an adjustment. If you’ve already made a muslin, you might notice you need to do an FBA because things just aren’t quite sitting right in that area. Some symptoms may include:
- the waistline being higher at the front than the back of your bodice
- the fabric pulling around your arm syce
- an inability to close the bodice of your dress around your bust, even though you can over the rest of your body
- the apex hitting you too high