Now its time for View C of the Axel skirt. This one is a pencil skirt shape with a slit on one side. And since Axel is reversible, the slit can be worn in the front or back! Seams and hem are kind of done all together, so this should be pretty straightforward. Ready?
Start with the two skirt pieces that do not have the angle for the slit.
Place together, with right sides of the fabric together, lining up the center seam.
Sew the center seam 1/4″(6mm) from the raw edge (5/8″(1.5cm) if you are using the older version with letter sizes), using either a zig zag stitch or overlock/serger.
Now take the two skirt pieces that do have the angled slit. Do not sew the center seam yet!
Place these two skirt pieces on top of the other side of the skirt, with right sides of the fabric facing each other. Line up the side seams.
Sew the side seam 1/4″(6mm) from the raw edge (5/8″(1.5cm) if you are using the older version with letter sizes), using either a zig zag stitch or overlock/serger.
Now open up your skirt so it is laying flat, wrong side facing up. We are going to do the hem first, before finishing the last seam.
To make hemming easier, I would suggest using a fusible hem tape. It holds the hem in place while sewing, especially useful when working with thicker knits like scuba that do not press and hold well. There are a few different kinds out there – Stitch Witchery is one where you have to sandwich it in between the fabric fold before pressing to fuse. Or there is this one pictured here, that I will be using use.
Start with one side of the slit.
For this type of hem adhesive, Place the tape along one edge and press with your iron.
Peel off the paper to expose the other side of the adhesive. Then fold over 1/2″(1.2cm) and press again.
Do the same thing on the other side of the slit – adhering the hem tape and folding over 1/2″(1.2cm) and pressing.
Now do the same thing along the bottom hem. Again, hem allowance is 1/2″(1.2cm) and only needs to be folded under once.
Topstitch close to the edge using a zig- zag stitch or twin needle. Start at the top of the slit, pivot at the hem, and pivot again to go back up the other side of the slit.
Here is what one of my corners looks like from the wrong side.
And here it is from the right side.
Turn your skirt over so it is now laying open, with the right side facing up.
Fold it in half so the right sides of the fsbric are fscing esch other, lining up the center seam.
Sew the center seam 1/4″(6mm) from the raw edge, from the waistline to the top of the slit (5/8″(1.5cm) if you are using the older version with letter sizes), using either a zig zag stitch or overlock/serger.
And there you go! The slit can be worn in the front or back. Now we just need to attach the waistband!
LOOKING FOR MORE AXEL POSTS?
- Sewalong : View A Seams and hem
- Sewalong : View B Sash, seams, and hem
- Sewalong : View C Seams and hem (this post!)
- Sewalong : Waistband (all versions)
- Tutorial : removing center seam View A
- Hack : Flippy Mini Skirt
- How to sew a handkerchief hem on knit fabric (another way!)
DON’T HAVE THE PATTERN YET?
