Next up on our Cascade skirts – we’re actually going to do the hem! Yes, usually the hem is there very last step in the sewing project. But due to the shape of the Cascade skirt, it must be done before attaching the waistband. And because of the extreme curved shape, and that it may be made in some lightweight fabrics, the recommended hem technique would be a rolled hem. A few notes:
-Best practice for a skirt like this is to let it hang from a hanger for 24 hours before hemming it. Fabric cut on the bias will tend to stretch and grow with gravity, so you want it to do this before you hem. That way you can trim and correct the hem shape beforehand and not have to fix it later. Trust me, this is important!
-There are other ways to sew a rolled hem than what I am about to show you here. If you have a rolled hem presser foot that you are comfortable using – by all means, use that and skip this post! I’ll also be showing you alternative ban-roll method tomorrow, too.
-Lastly, (If you choose to do a different hemming method, just remember that the seam allowance is only 1/2″).
Ok, phew. Back to this rolled hem! Once you’ve let your skirt hang and have corrected the shape, continue below.
Stitch 1/4″ from the raw edge all the way around the skirt hem.
Fold over the hem along the line of stitching towards the wrong side of the fabric and press. Going slowly will ensure that the fabric eases into the curve.
Sew a scant 1/8″ from the folded edge all the way around the skirt hem.
Trim back the raw edge of the hem as close to that second line of stitching as you can.
Once again, fold over the hemline towards the wrong side, just enough to enclose the raw edge and press, ensuring that the curve of the hemline is maintained.
Sew close to the edge, or through the center, of your rolled hem, all the way around the hemline,
On the outside of the skirt there will be one visible line of stitches, on the inside of the skirt there will be two visible lines of stitches.
LOOKING FOR MORE CASCADE POSTS?
- How to Choose Between Cascade and Cascade Curve
- Sewalong : pockets and side seams
- Sewalong : french side seams (optional)
- Sewalong : rolled hem (this post!)
- Sewalong : bonus hemming method – ban-roll hem
- Sewalong : lining (optional)
- Sewalong : tie waistband
- Sewalong : button waistband
- Hack : straight hem
- Hack : mini ballet skirt
- Hack: ruffle hem
DON’T HAVE THE PATTERN YET?
Order Cascade sizes 0-20 or curve sizes 14-34!
