You may have seen this Rowan hack floating around Instagram before, because it’s already a much loved version by so many. I’m talking about the square neckline hack! I first came across this hack from Bella at @whatbellamade, who has a whole video tutorial saved in a highlight on her Instagram profile. I’m going to walk you through all the steps here in photos, but if you learn better in video format, definitely head to her profile to see her tutorial in action – It’s a good one, and very helpful!
It’s a pretty quick pattern alteration, and then most of the steps to walk through are the construction the bodice is lined with enclosed seams. The sleeves are not lined.
A small note – I’m going to be including two sets of measurements for the pattern alteration. First, the measurements that Bella uses. I’ve made a couple of square neck Rowans using those measurements, and for me personally, it is a bit too low cut. So if you have a similar small bust or body shape to me, or just prefer a bit more modesty, I’ll also be sharing a second set of measurements that I’ve settled on. Of course, you can always play around with your own measurements to get the perfect fit for you!
So our pattern alteration only needs to be done on the front bodice. The back bodice can be kept as is.
Bella’s measurements
Place your ruler parallel to the grainline (where the purple arrow is pointing), so the corner of the ruler is touching the corner of the shoulder.
Draw a line 8″ from the shoulder point.
And then, draw a horizontal line, perpendicular to the grainline, 3.5″ for the center front.
This horizontal line is at the end of that 8″ vertical line, but extends past it.
Next, just connect the end of that 3.5″ horizontal line back up to the shoulder point, with a straight line.
The purple lines as you see here is where you will cut for your new pattern.
Holly’s “modest” measurements
I did the exact same thing as above, just with slightly different numbers.
My vertical line, parallel to the grain, went down 6.5″.
Then I drew my horizontal line, perpendicular to the grainline, 3 1/8″ in from the center front. And then connected back up to the shoulder corner.
continuing…
Whatever measurements you choose, cut out at those purple lines, and your bodice front will now look something like this.
You will need to cut 2 bodice fronts, 2 bodice backs, and 2 sleeves (not pictured here).
Place each Bodice Front with a Bodice back, right sides of the fabric together. Sew each pair together at the side seams, 1/4″ from the raw edge using a zig zag stitch or serger.
Also sew each set together at the shoulder seams, 1/4″ from the raw edge. (sorry, I forgot to indicate this with the black lines in the photo).
Keep one bodice set inside out, and turn the other set right side out.
Place the right-side-out set inside the inside-out set, so the right sides of the fabric are facing each other.
Line up the raw edges of the neckline, matching the shoulder seams, and pin in place around the entire neckline.
Sew 1/4″ from the raw edge, pivoting at the corners of the square, using a stretch stitch.
Clip into the seam allowance at each of the corners of the square, making sure not to cut through any stitches.
Turn your bodice right side out though the neckline, then press the neckline well.
Now we are going to sew the hem, so it is also completely enclosed.
Start at one of the side seams. Holding your fingers at each layers seam…
pull the two layers apart…
and then twist them around so that those two seams are now right sides together. Pin.
Work around entire hem, pinning right sides together as you go, and making sure to match up the other side seams.
Everything is all twisty, and that’s what its supposed to be! As Bella says, you’ll notice that the top looks like a ring, with the pinned hem a ring going around and through it.
Sew the hem together, working around that ring, 1/4″ from the raw edge using a zig zag stitch or serger.
Now reach into one of the armholes and turn it right side out.
Press the hem.
Now all the enclosed seam parts are done and we can move onto attaching our sleeves!
Fold each sleeve in half with right sides together.
Line up the raw edges and sew 1/4″ from the edge using a zig zag stitch or serger.
Turn your top inside out.
(I know its hard to tell when the top is fully lined in the same fabric, but this is my inner layer facing out).
With your sleeve right side out, place your sleeve inside your bodice…
Line up the raw edges of the sleeve with the raw edges of the armscye. Match up the seam of sleeve with the side seam of the bodice, and the notch on the top of the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam. Pin in place.
Remember the bodice is 2 layers, so with the sleeve, you will be pinning and then sewing through 3 layers.
Sew 1/4″ from the edge around the entire armscye using a zig zag stitch or serger.
Repeat for the other sleeve.
Just finish hemming your sleeve, and you’re done! (don’t forget to check out the hem post of the Rowan sewalong if you need help with hemming!).
And that’s it! Here is my version with the 6.5″ measurements, which i think is perfect for me!
Remember – if you still need some visual help with any of the construction, don’t forget to check out @whatbellamade‘s video tutorial on Instragram!
LOOKING FOR MORE ROWAN POSTS?
- Sewalong : Crew Neck Band and Turtleneck
- Sewalong : V-neck Band
- Sewalong : Sleeves and Side Seams
- Sewalong : Bodysuit Leg Openings
- Sewalong : Hem
- Sewing Technique : Lettuce Hem
- Sewing Technique : Shell Tuck Stitch / Scallop Edge
- Hack : Sleeveless with Sleeve Bands
- Hack : Fully Enclosed Sleeveless
- Hack: Sleeve Ties
- Hack : Square Neckline (this post!)
- Hack : Cinched Side Seams
- Hack : Ruffle Shoulders
- Hack : Maxi Dress
- Hack : Scoop Neckline
- Hack : Bodycon Dress
- Hack : Tiered Dress
- Tutorial : Lengthen or Shorten
- Tutorial : 3 Ways To Sew a Ringer Tee
- Rowan Inspiration and Ideas
- Rowan Tester Round Up
- Rowan Curve Tester Round Up
- Rowan Curve Maker Round Up
DON’T HAVE THE PATTERN YET?
