Next up in our Protea sewalong, we are going to add the waistband to our skirt versions (View E). It includes two optional buttonholes for a drawstring and a comfy elastic band.
Just note – The pattern piece for the skirt waistband is the same piece for the dress waist channel. The notches on the pattern piece refer to the attachment of the channel to the bodice and should not be used for the skirt waistband here, so just ignore them!
On the right side of the fabric, mark two vertical buttonholes 5/8″ long on either side of the centre front, in the positions indicated on the pattern piece.
Cut two small pieces of fusible interfacing…
…and apply to the buttonhole locations but on the wrong side of the fabric.
Using your buttonhole setting on your machine, sew your two buttonholes on the right side of your fabric, where your markings were. Don’t forget to cut open your buttonholes before moving on!
Fold the Waistband in half, lengthways with right sides together so that the short ends are lined up. Sew 5/8″ (1.5 cm) from the edge.
Press the seam open.
Fold in 5/8″ (1.5 cm) along the raw edge opposite the buttonholes, and press.
Mark the waistband in quarters with pins.
These will be centre front, side seams and centre back.
You have already sewn the basting stitches along the top edge of the skirt, side seam to side seam (leaving the pockets free).
To gather the skirt simply hold the skirt stationary and pull on one of the basting threads to gather up the skirt. Gather until the skirt is roughly the width of the waistband.
Place the waistband inside the gathered skirt with right sides together and so that the waistline raw edge with buttonholes is aligned with the skirt.
Ensure that the waistband seam is aligned with the centre back of the skirt.
The side seams of the skirt should be aligned with the quarter mark pins on the waistband.
The centre front of the skirt should be aligned with the centre front pin on the waistband and buttonholes.
Ease your gathers into the waistline, adjusting the gathers using the loose threads. Pin in place.
Flip pockets to the front of the skirt and pin in place.
The gathering will now be sandwiched in between the shirt and waistband in those two areas.
Sew around the waistline 5/8″ (1.5 cm) from the raw edge.
Press the seams up towards the waistband.
Here it is pressed up from the right side of the fabric.
And here it is pressed up from the inside of the fabric.
Now take the opposite, folded waistband edge and fold it down towards to inside of the skirt.
Line that folded edge up with the waist seam stitch line so that it encloses the raw edges and seam allowances.
Pin in place as you go.
I like to start out pinning from the inside as I get it in place, and then one-by-one switch the pins to the right side of the skirt because we will be stitching from the right side.
On the right side of the fabric, Sew 1/8″ (2mm) from the waistline seam on the waistband…
…being careful to catch the folded edge on the inside of the garment…
…and leaving a gap in your sewing at centre back around 2″ (5cm) long to thread the elastic through.
Cut your elastic according to the size chart, and wrap it around your waist to check for fit and comfort.
Attach a safety pin or bodkin to one end.
Thread the elastic through the waistband casing using the gap you left in your stitching…
…until you come out the other end of the opening.
Overlap the cut ends of the elastic by 1/2″ (1.3 cm) and sew together with a zig-zag stitch.
Close the gap in your waistband casing by sewing 1/8″ (2mm) from the waistline seam on the right side of the fabric…
…ensuring that you sew through the folded inside edge of the waistband.
Stretch the waistband to its maximum a few times to evenly distribute the elastic and waistband fabric.
Sew 3/8″ (1cm) from the top edge of the waistband through the waistband and elastic using a long straight stitch, stretching the waistband as you sew so that the elastic and waistband fabric lay flat.
Do the same thing, this time 3/8″ from the waist seam.
Here is a close-up of the topstitching on the waistband.
Now attach a safety pin to one end of your drawstring cord. Insert it into one buttonhole and thread it through the waistband and back out the other buttonhole.
LOOKING FOR MORE PROTEA POSTS?
- How to choose between Protea & Protea Curve
- Protea Inspiration & Ideas
- Protea Tester Round Up & Protea Curve Tester Round Up
- Hacks for the Protea Capsule Wardrobe
- Protea Maker Round-Up
- Sewalong: Staystitching, Darts & Shoulder Seams
- Sewalong: Neckline Facing
- Sewalong: Side Seams & Sleeves
- Bonus Protea Hack: Sleeveless Protea
- Sewalong: Dress Drawstring Channel
- Sewalong: Pockets & Skirt
- Sewalong: Tiered Skirt
- Sewalong: Attaching the Skirt to the Bodice
- Sewalong: Dress Drawstring
- Sewalong: Skirt Waistband (this post!)
- Sewalong: Hem
- Bonus Protea Hack: Elastic Puff Sleeves