Next step in your Protea top or dress … sleeves! Protea has two great sleeve options – a straight fitted sleeve or a flutter sleeve. The insertion process is exactly the same, so I’ll be showing you the process on the fitted sleeve here.
Before we insert the sleeves, we have to sew up the side seams.
Turn the top so that the front and back are right sides together.
Line up the side seams and pin in place.
Sew along the side seams 5/8″ (1.5 cm) from the raw edge.
Finish the raw edge by your preferred method, such as stitching with a zig-zag stitch or overlocking/serging.
Press seams open or towards the back of the garment.
** A NOTE: The instructions advise sewing a set of basting stitches between the upper two single notches, however, the ease of the sleeve actually needs to be distributed between the lower front and back notches as shown above.
Set your sewing machine to the longest stitch length and sew a line of stitches between the front and back notches on either side of the sleeve cap, roughly 5/8″ (1.5 cm) from the raw edge. Do not back stitch, and ensure you leave the threads loose. For more controlled gathers consider sewing a second row of basting 3/8″ (1cm) along the raw edge.
Fold the sleeves in half with right sides together.
Pin and sew 5/8″ (1.5 cm) from the raw edge.
Finish the raw edge using your preferred method, and press either open or towards the front.
(From here on out, the sleeves are shown incorrectly in the photos, with the basting stitches between the single notches. The basting stitches should extend between the lower front and back notches as shown in the above steps.)
Turn your sleeves right side out.
And turn your bodice wrong side facing out.
Place the sleeve inside the armhole.
When inserting the sleeve, be careful that the sleeve is the right way round. The front of the sleeve includes single notches whereas the back of the sleeve includes double notches.
Match up the sleeve seam with the side seam with right sides together.
Align the sleeve cap notch with the shoulder seam.
The front and back notches on the sleeves should be aligned with the notches on the bodice pieces.
Pull on the loose threads from your basting stitches to adjust the ease of the sleeve, and fit and line up into the armscye.
Finish pinning the sleeve to the armscye as the ease is adjusted.
Sew the sleeve to the blouse 5/8″ (1.5 cm) from the raw edge.
Finish the seam edges using your preferred method, and press the seams toward the inside of the sleeve. Repeat this for the second sleeve.
Remove the basting stitches if visible from the right side of the garment.
We’ll hem the sleeve later on!
LOOKING FOR MORE PROTEA POSTS?
- How to choose between Protea & Protea Curve
- Protea Inspiration & Ideas
- Protea Tester Round Up & Protea Curve Tester Round Up
- Hacks for the Protea Capsule Wardrobe
- Protea Maker Round-Up
- Sewalong: Staystitching, Darts & Shoulder Seams
- Sewalong: Neckline Facing
- Sewalong: Side Seams & Sleeves (this post!)
- Bonus Protea Hack: Sleeveless Protea
- Sewalong: Dress Drawstring Channel
- Sewalong: Pockets & Skirt
- Sewalong: Tiered Skirt
- Sewalong: Attaching the Skirt to the Bodice
- Sewalong: Dress Drawstring
- Sewalong: Skirt Waistband
- Sewalong: Hem
- Bonus Protea Hack: Elastic Puff Sleeves