Up next in our Protea construction is the neckline facing for the top and dress views. We’ll go over both the round and square necklines, as well as different finishing options. A lot to discuss! So let’s get to it.
Attach lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the Front Facing and the wrong side of the Back Facing.
Side note: if you want to attach a label (like above) to the back facing, now is a good time to do it!
Place the Front Facing and Back Facing right sides together so that the shoulder seams line up.
Sew along the shoulder seams 5/8″ (1.5 cm) from the raw edge.
Press the seams open.
Outer Edge Finishing options
The first option for finishing the outer edge of the facing is with a serger or zig-zag stitch.
This option works equally well for both the round and square necklines.
Alternatively, the second option is to turn under the outer edge of the whole facing by 1/4″ (6mm) and press.
This option works best with the square neckline facing, but can also be done with the round neckline as well.
After the facing is attached you can then topstitch the neckline, securing the facing and enclosing the raw edges.
Sewing the Square Neckline Facing
You have already staystitched and sewed the shoulder seams, so now open up the garment so that the right side of the fabric is facing outwards.
Place the facing over the neckline with right sides together.
Line up the raw edges, match up the shoulder seams, and pin in place.
Attach the facing to the neckline by sewing 5/8″ (1.5 cm) from the raw edge around the neckline, pivoting at the corners for sharp square corners.
For the square neckline, clip into the four corners of the neckline being careful not to clip through the stitches. You may also trim back the seams if desired.
Press the facing and seam allowances away from the neckline.
Understitch 1/8″ away from the seam along the edge of the neckline facing to prevent the facing from showing on the right side of the garment.
With the square neckline, you won’t be able to understitch around the whole neckline in one go. Instead, understitch along one edge, getting as close to the corner as possible. Then repeat with each of the other edges.
Here you can see how the understitching gets close to the corners but does not meet.
Turn the facing to the inside of the garment, enclosing the raw edges and press well.
Again, here is another look at that understitching.
Sewing the Round Neckline Facing
Again, you have already staystitched and sewed the shoulder seams, so now open up the garment so that the right side of the fabric is facing outwards. Place the facing over the neckline with right sides together.
Line up the raw edges, match up the shoulder seams, and pin in place.
Attach the facing to the neckline by sewing 5/8″ (1.5 cm) from the raw edge around the neckline, pivoting at the corners for sharp square corners.
For the round neckline, clip into the seam allowance every 1″ (2.5 cm) being careful not to clip through the stitches, and then trim the seam allowance back so they are only 1/4″ (6mm) wide.
Understitch 1/8″ away from the seam along the edge of the neckline facing to prevent the facing from showing on the right side of the garment.
Turn the facing to the inside of the garment, enclosing the raw edges and press well.
Finishing Option 1
One way to finish your facing is to stitch around the outer edge of the facing. This is necessary if you chose to turn under the outer edge of the facing, but can also be done if you chose a serged or zig-zag finish, on either round or square necklines.
With the facing turned and pressed towards the wrong side of the garment, pin in place around the outer edge.
Carefully sew close the outer edge around the entire facing. For the square neckline, pivot at the corners.
Just remember – this option means that there will be visible stitching on the outside of your garment!
Finishing Option 2
For a cleaner finish, after pressing the facing towards the inside of the garment, secure the facing at the shoulder seams only either by hand tacking or by stitching in the ditch along the shoulder seams.
There will be no visible stitching from the outside of the garment, and the facing will float freely on the inside, other than being tacked down at the shoulders.
And there are your facing options!
LOOKING FOR MORE PROTEA POSTS?
- How to choose between Protea & Protea Curve
- Protea Inspiration & Ideas
- Protea Tester Round Up & Protea Curve Tester Round Up
- Hacks for the Protea Capsule Wardrobe
- Protea Maker Round-Up
- Sewalong: Staystitching, Darts & Shoulder Seams
- Sewalong: Neckline Facing (this post!)
- Sewalong: Side Seams & Sleeves
- Bonus Protea Hack: Sleeveless Protea
- Sewalong: Dress Drawstring Channel
- Sewalong: Pockets & Skirt
- Sewalong: Tiered Skirt
- Sewalong: Attaching the Skirt to the Bodice
- Sewalong: Dress Drawstring
- Sewalong: Skirt Waistband
- Sewalong: Hem
- Bonus Protea Hack: Elastic Puff Sleeves
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