Today we are going to conquer the placket & inseam! I know plackets can be a bit intimidating & tricky, but I’m going to take you through each step. It may seem like a lot, but don’t worry! I’m taking you through every little step and it will work out!
Let’s do this! This method is the same for both the round and V-necklines. First place the front placket pieces on top of the back neckline facing with right sides together. Line up the shoulder seams.
Sew along the shoulder seams at 5/8”. Press the seam open.
Stitch around the entire outer edge of the placket including the outer angled edge of the placket 5/8” from the raw edge.
This can be a basting stitch as shown above.
Using your line of stitching as a guide, turn the outer edges of the placket to the wrong side and press well.
Clip into the corner of the placket to allow the curve to be pressed. Be sure not to clip through the stitching.
Turn the garment right side out. Place the placket facing over the neckline with right sides together. Be sure that the placket facing and garment neckline and placket bottom edge are aligned correctly. Also, be sure that the waist notch on the placket is aligned with the waist seam of the garment.
Sew the placket on using a 1/4” seam allowance from the raw edge around the neckline, then pivot at the V neckline and sew with a 5/8” seam allowance down the entire placket. Pivot again at the angled corner of the placket and continue sewing at 5/8” down the short edge.
The sewing should finish at the folded edge of the placket facing and the corner of your crotch staystitching. Clip the corner of the front neckline, corner of the placket opening, and clip in 1” intervals along with the curved neckline seam allowance. Do not clip through the stitching. Trim back the placket facing seam allowance to reduce bulk in the placket.
Press the facing and seams away from the neckline.
Under stitch along the edge of the neckline facing and placket as much as possible.
This prevents the facing and placket from showing on the right side of the garment.
Turn the facing towards the inside of the garment. Press the neckline and placket well. Be sure that the facing does not show along the neckline edge.
Starting at the bottom point of one of the plackets topstitch close to the folded edge of the placket. Pivot at the placket corner and continue up the center front opening (this is about 1 5/8” from the edge). Pivot about 1” from the neckline at the concave corner of the placket and then continue around the neckline 1” from the neckline edge. Pivot at the concave corner of the placket facing and sew down the placket towards the crotch. You should finish again at the crotch pivot point at the bottom of the other placket. Note: I used my edge stitching foot and sewed from the inside of the garment close to the edge of the placket to make this step easier. Just be sure that the facing and placket remain in place and don’t shift as it’s sewn. You may want to use some pins to hold it in place and sew.
Also, be sure not to sew the plackets to each other during this step.
Next, place the right placket over the left and align the waist seam and bottom of the placket. Pin to secure. Be sure that the bottom angled edges of the placket are clearly overlapped and aligned. We will be topstitching a triangle at the bottom of the placket so you may want to mark a horizontal stitching line for a guide (mine is marked with a faint blue line in the photo above).
Tip: I used wash-away hem tape to secure the bottom of my plackets before sewing. It keeps it from shifting while sewing.
Using your marking as a guide, sew your triangle at the bottom of the placket. The stitching should be on top of the previous lines of stitching as close as you can get it). This is an important step as it secures the two plackets and provides strength to an area that will be under stress when the garment is taken on and off. Go slow if you’re using thick fabric as there will be several layers.
Turn the jumpsuit inside out and line up the pants and inseams right sides together.
Sew at 5/8”, finish the raw edges as desired, and press the seams open or to the back. Now take a second to admire your awesome sewing! We are just about done!
Happy Sewing!
Nastasia
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