Today on the blog we are looking at a few more adjustments you might need to get the fit of your Durban jumpsuit right for you – this time in the bust & armscye area! Busts come in all shapes and sizes and our preferences on how things fit and sit on our body can vary a lot too – so if you’re feeling like your bust or armscye needs a little tweaking – this post is for you. We’re discussing SBAs, FBAs, changing the position of the dart and you can alter the shape or height of the armscye for a more customised fit. Let’s get started!
Small & Full Bust Adjustments
One of the differences between the 0-20 and Curve Durban patterns is that they are drafted for different cup sizes. 0-20 Durban is designed for a “B-cup” i.e. a 2” difference between the upper & full bust, while Durban Curve is drafted for a “D-cup” i.e. a difference of 4” between the upper & full bust measurements. If the difference between your own measurements is less or more than the draft of the pattern you’re using – you may need a small bust adjustment or a full bust adjustment. And guess what! We have some great tutorials on how to make these alterations!
For the 0-20 version of Durban which has a closed dart, you can check out the Banksia FBA/SBA post to help you through the steps to get the fit you need. For Durban Curve cut-away though, while the adjustments will essentially be the same as the 0-20, they will look a bit more like the Dove FBA/SBA which is an adjustment on a French dart – so have a peak at that tutorial instead!
Something important to note for either pattern though is that when making FBA or SBA adjustments, if you make an even adjustment down the full length of your bodice, the waist of the garment will be increased or decreased. Because the bodice of Durban needs to fit back together with the pants half of the garment however, you will need to do one last step at the end of your SBA or FBA to prevent this. By pivoting the section of bodice below the dart so it meets back up with the other half of the front bodice waist (aligning the pieces at the stitching line – not the pattern edge), you will still have made the adjustment you need to your bust, but the waist will stay the same and will still fit with your pants – yay!
Raising or Lowering the Dart
The exact position of the fullest part of the bust (your bust apex) can vary from person to person – some people’s busts sit higher, some lower – but they’re all normal! If the bust apex of the Durban pattern is sitting higher or lower than your own personal bust apex, meaning that the volume created by the dart isn’t at the right height for your bust, you can raise or lower the dart so it’s giving you the space you need – where you need it!
To do this, draw and cut a box around the entire dart and slide it up or down by the required amount. You can then place a piece of paper underneath to fill the gap that has been left and tape everything in place. You’ll also need to smooth out the side seam edges that have been disturbed, between the the dart legs and the armscye/waist edge seam allowances.
Adjusting the Depth or Shape of the Armscye
The height and shape of armholes can be a very personal thing and something that can be a bit uncomfortable when it’s not right. If you find that Durban’s sleeveless armscye is a little high or a little low for you, or that the scoop of it’s curve or width of the shoulder isn’t sitting where you’d like it to be – you can just adjust it!
It’s a super simple change – all you need to do is trim or add to the armscye curve at whatever point you’d like to adjust, then make the same alteration to the facing’s armscye edge so they still fit together. Lastly, you’ll just need to tweak the outside curve of the facing – making the opposite adjustment that you just made to the armscye – so it will be back to it’s original width.
And that’s a wrap on out bust & armscye adjustments! If you’ve got any questions about what we’ve covered today – let us know if the comments section below :)
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Here’s the full list of Durban posts and tutorials:
- How to Choose Between Durban & Durban Curve
- Inspiration & Ideas
- Durban Tester Roundup & Durban Curve Tester Roundup
- Fitting & Alterations: Lengthening & Shortening
- Fitting & Alterations: Grading Between Sizes
- Fitting & Alterations: Bust & Armscye Adjustments (this post!)
- Prep, Stabilizing & Darts
- Bodice Seams & Sleeves
- Sleeveless Facings
- Inseam, Patch & Back Pockets
- Combining Bodice & Pants
- Placket & Inseam
- Placket Tips
- Closures, Hemming & Belts
- D-Ring Belt
- Durban Maker Roundup