Welcome back for the second part of the Durban Sewalong! Today you’ll start to really see the bodice seams & sleeves come together! Let’s get sewing!
Place the front bodice pieces on top of the back bodice with right sides together.
Sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge at the shoulder seams and along the side seams. Finish the raw edges with your preferred method and press open or towards the back of the garment.
Next up is the sleeves! Set your sewing machine to a long stitch length and sew a line of basting stitches between the notches about 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge. Do not backstitch and be sure to leave thread tails. Note: Instead of cutting notches I marked them with a blue washout fabric marker. This line of basting stitches will allow us to ease the sleeve cap into the sleeve opening. Note: If you’re making the sleeveless version you’ll follow the same method we will use to do the neckline facing in another post to attach your sleeveless facings.
Fold the sleeves in half with right sides together and sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge. Finish the raw edges (zig-zag or serge) and press open or towards the back.
Turn the sleeve right side out and turn the bodice wrong side out. Insert the sleeve into the armscye with right sides together. Line up the side seams and align the sleeve cap notch with the shoulder seam.
Be sure that the sleeve is inserted correctly. The front of the sleeve has a single notch and the back of the sleeve has double notches. Pin or clip the sleeve to the bodice and adjust the ease at the sleeve cap by pulling on your basting stitches.
Sew the sleeve to the bodice 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge.
You may then remove the line of basting stitches if its visible from the outside.
Neaten the seam edges with your serger or zig zag stitch and press the seams towards the inside of the sleeve. Repeat these steps to attach your other sleeve.
It’s so exciting to see this garment really come together. You may even want to try on the bodice and admire your work thus far! Come back for the next post to continue on!
Happy Sewing!
Nastasia
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