View ACE Collar Band

Phew, almost there! If you’ve added ties to your view A, C, or E of Hovea jacket (or if you’re choosing no ties or belt), then this is your final post! If you’re adding a belt and belt loops, that final post will be tomorrow.

But today we are going to add the collar band. This is the same method whether your jacket is unlined, or if you’ve already added the lining. Let’s finish this up!

Cut out lightweight fusible interfacing for both of your collar band pieces.

Attach the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the collar band pieces.

Place your two collar band pieces together with right sides together, with ‘center back’ short end end aligned.

Sew along the center back seam 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the raw edge.

Press the seams open.

Fold the collar band in half and press to crease.

Then open the collar band back up and turn in 5/8″ (1.5cm) to the wrong side along one edge and press.

Place the collar band on the garment with right sides together and so that the raw edges of the collar band and neckline are aligned.

Ensure that the notches on the collar band are aligned with the relevant seams and notches on the garment.

The collar band will extend past the bottom edge of the garment by 5/8″ (1.5cm) on both ends.

Note: You will need to ease the back neckline into the collar band using your staystitching.

Sew the collar to the garment 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the raw edge around the entire neckline.

Press the collar and seam allowance away from the garment.

Seen here from the wrong side…

… and seen here from the right side.

You can see here again how the collar band extends past the hem of the jacket.

With the right side of your jacket facing up, fold the collar in half with right sides together, and match up the folded edge of the collar with the seam previously sewn.

Sew the bottom edges of the collar 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the raw edge. Be careful not to catch the garment hem in your stitches.

Trim back the seam allowance to reduce bulk, and clip the corner.

Turn the collar the right way round, so half the collar goes towards the inside of the jacket, and so that it encloses the seam allowances on the wrong side of the garment.

Pin the collar to the seam allowance.

The fold of the collar should just line up on the wrong side with the original stitch line.

To enclose, either topstitch along the collar, close to the edge…

…or stitch in the ditch right in the seam on the outside of the garment.

Additionally, you could also choose to hand sew on the inside of the garment for a clean look.