View ACE Adding Lining

If you are making a lined A, C, or E version of the Hovea jacket – today is a big day for you! We are finally going construct the body of the jacket and add that lining! I’ll show you how to bag the lining for a clean and professional finish. It’s really not as hard as you might think, and its pretty satisfying when it’s done!

And again – I’ll be showing you this on the longer view C, but the same method applies to all three views.

Construct your outer shell in your main fabric. Sew the pockets, shoulder seams, sleeves, and side seams as directed in previous posts.

No need to finish the raw edges.

Now construct your lining. Sew the shoulder seams, sleeves, and side seams as directed in previous posts
(no pockets).

No need to finish the raw edges.

Set the lining aside for a minute.

On the main shell, turn about 2 3/8″ towards the wrong side of the garment at the hem and press to crease well.

Unfold the hem, but careful to keep that crease.

On the sleeves, also turn about 2 3/8″ towards the wrong side of the garment and press.

Keep the sleeves folded.

Lay your main shell down so the right side pf the fabric is facing up. The hem should be unfolded but you can see the crease.

Place your lining down on top so that the right sides of the fabrics are facing each other.

Line up the bottom edge of lining with the (unfolded) bottom edge of the main shell, lining up side seams. Pin in place.

You will notice that the lining is shorter than the main shell.

Sew the lining to the main shell 3/8” from the bottom edge.

Open the garment so that the wrong sides of both shell and lining are facing up.

Press the seam towards the lining.

Be careful that you do not unpress the hem creases you previously pressed into place.

Optional: From the right side of the fabric, you may understitch along the lining next to the seam at this stage to keep the seams in place and facing the lining.

Now we need to attach the sleeves together.

Again, the garment should be open and wrong sides of both fabrics facing up. And the hem of the main shell sleeves pressed and folded under.

Bring the lining sleeve up towards the main shell sleeve, placing the main shell sleeve inside the lining sleeve so that right sides of the fabrics are together.

Line up the raw edges of the two fabrics and pin together.

Sew the lining to the sleeve hem 3/8” from the raw edge.

Repeat for the other sleeve.

This is what it should look like now. Garment open with wrong side of the fabrics up, attached at the hem and sleeves.

Now pick up the lining by the neckline…

…and lay it on top of the main shell. So now the wrong sides of the two fabrics are facing each other.

Reach your hand inside the sleeve of the lining and pull through the main shell sleeve. So now the wrong sides of the sleeve fabrics are together.

This is why we kept the sleeve pressed. Look at that perfect self-facing!

Repeat for the other sleeve.

It’s starting to come together now. You can also see the self-facing at the hem – the reason the lining is shorter than the main shell.

Press the hem and sleeves once more and carefully adjust and reshape the garment.

Now line up the lining and main shell along the neckline opening (the only raw edge left exposed).

Pin in place.

Pin in place.

Staystitch 5/8” from the raw edge around the entire neckline.

Clip into the seam allowance around the back neckline being careful not to cut through the stitches. This will help you to ease in your Collar Band.

You have now fully lined your coat and are ready to attach the collar band!