View ACE Flat Sleeve Insertion

It’s time for the second sleeve insertion method for the Hovea jacket – the flat sleeve insertion method. This method is best for unlined views of A, C, E that don’t have much bulk in the underam. But can be used in any of the views if you would like. Alternatively, you can also use the inset sleeve method that we went over before for Views A, C & E as well.

For this flat insertion method, you first sew the shoulder seams only. Side seams will be sewn later on. Ok, lets go….

Place your back jacket piece down with the right side of the fabric facing up.

Put your two front pieces down on top, so the right sides of the fabrics are facing each other.

Line up the shoulder edges together and sew 5/8″ from the raw edge.

If lining the garment press the seams open. If the garment will be unlined, finish the raw edges by your desired method or by the Basic Binding Method and press towards the back of the garment.

Open the garment so that the right sides of both the front and back are facing up and the sleeve opening is flat.

Place the sleeve right sides together with the garment so that sleeve head notch is aligned with the shoulder seam.

Line that notch up with the shoulder seam.

Line up the edges of the sleeve with the edges of the sleeve opening and pin.

This pattern does not include any sleeve cap ease and as such the sleeve should not require basting to insert. It may not appear this way due to the seam allowance on the sleeve cap – ensure that you align the seamline of the sleeve with the seamline of the armscye, pinning as you go.

Sew the armscye seam 5/8” from the raw edge.

If the garment will be unlined finish the raw edges by your desired method or by the Basic Binding Method.

Press the seam allowance towards the sleeve.

Fold the garment right sides together.

Align the sleeve seams and side seams and ensure that the armscye seam is aligned at the underarm. Pin together.

Sew the side seam and sleeve seam in a continuous line 5/8” from the raw edge.

Due to the angle of the underarm curve you may find the underarm sits better if you either clip into the seam allowance, being careful not to cut through your stitching, or trim back the seam allowance in this area.

If lining the garment press the seams open. If the garment will be unlined, finish the raw edges by your desired method or by using the basic binding method and press towards the back of the garment.

Repeat for the other sleeve, and then you’re ready for the ties and hang loop!