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MN2302 Hovea / Sewalongs

Hovea Sewalong: View ACE Unlined Pockets

Hovea Views A, C, E Unlined Pockets

There are two different ways to add pockets to views A, C or E of the Hovea jacket – unlined or lined. Today, we are going to go over the unlined pockets! Which just invoves making a facing before sewing the pocket to the jacket.  I’ll be showing you on a cropped view E, but it is the same method for all three views.

And look out for an optional tidbit at the end – how to add a pocket division for more functional, small pockets. Let’s get into it!

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsCut out lightweight fusible interfacing for your pocket facings.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsApply the interfacings to both facing pieces.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsFold in 3/8” along the bottom edge of each facing and press.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsPlace the pocket facing on the pocket with right sides together, aligning the notches along the pocket opening.

Sew along the pocket opening 5/8” from the raw edge.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsAs the pocket opening is slightly curved you may need to clip into the seam allowance in a few places to allow it to fold back to the wrong side cleanly.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsPress the pocket facing and seam allowance away from pocket (as seen from the wrong side here).

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen Patterns how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsOn the right side, understitch next to the seam along the pocket facing edge, less than 1/8” from the seam.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsTurn the facing to the wrong side of the pocket, press, and pin in place.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsYou can clip off that little corner if you have it.

Stitch close the facing edge, or handsititch for an invisible look, to attach the facing to the pocket and enclose the raw edges.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsHere is what it looks like from the right side with the stitching.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsNow we need to attach the pockets to the front pieces.

Lay your front piece so the right side of the fabric is facing up.

Make sure you mark the notches from the pattern piece for pocket placement (I forgot to show that here).

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsPlace the pocket on the front so that the top edge of the pocket is aligned with the notches on the pattern.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen Patterns how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsStaystitch in place by sewing just under 5/8” along the side seam then pivoting just under 2 3/8” from the hemline and sewing just under 2 3/8” from the edge along the hemline, pivoting once more and sewing up the center front just under 5/8” from the edge.

Note: The 2 3/8″ from the bottom edge is for views A & E. If you are making the longer length view C – first sew under 5/8″ along side seam and center front. And then stitch close to the bottom edge of the pocket. We’ll be going over this in the lined pockets post.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsRepeat for the other pocket, making sure they sure they are lined up along the center front.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsOptional: pocket divisions. We have found that dividing the pockets into sections using topstitching creates opportunities for aesthetically pleasing and functional smaller pockets for things like mobile phones, keys, sewing tools etc. This can be done on all views but is particularly nice on the cropped views E & F.

To do this – measure the width of your phone or object you would like a custom pocket for, or just lay it down on your pocket, and add 1 1/8”.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsMeasure this distance in from the collar band, and draw a straight line down using tailors chalk or another marking tool.

how to sew the unlined pockets of views ACE on the Hovea sewing pattern by Megan Nielsen PatternsTopstitch along this line from the top of the pocket to the bottom of the pocket.

And that’s it!


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About Author

Holly writes part time for the Megan Nielsen blog– sewing like crazy, creating tutorials and sewalongs. She has been sewing since she was a little girl, and has her degree in apparel design. Now she’s a stay at home mama, and spends all her free nap times at her sewing machine.

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