There are two different ways to add pockets to views A, C or E of the Hovea jacket – unlined or lined. Today, we are going to go over the unlined pockets! Which just invoves making a facing before sewing the pocket to the jacket. I’ll be showing you on a cropped view E, but it is the same method for all three views.
And look out for an optional tidbit at the end – how to add a pocket division for more functional, small pockets. Let’s get into it!
Cut out lightweight fusible interfacing for your pocket facings.
Apply the interfacings to both facing pieces.
Fold in 3/8” along the bottom edge of each facing and press.
Place the pocket facing on the pocket with right sides together, aligning the notches along the pocket opening.
Sew along the pocket opening 5/8” from the raw edge.
As the pocket opening is slightly curved you may need to clip into the seam allowance in a few places to allow it to fold back to the wrong side cleanly.
Press the pocket facing and seam allowance away from pocket (as seen from the wrong side here).
On the right side, understitch next to the seam along the pocket facing edge, less than 1/8” from the seam.
Turn the facing to the wrong side of the pocket, press, and pin in place.
You can clip off that little corner if you have it.
Stitch close the facing edge, or handsititch for an invisible look, to attach the facing to the pocket and enclose the raw edges.
Here is what it looks like from the right side with the stitching.
Now we need to attach the pockets to the front pieces.
Lay your front piece so the right side of the fabric is facing up.
Make sure you mark the notches from the pattern piece for pocket placement (I forgot to show that here).
Place the pocket on the front so that the top edge of the pocket is aligned with the notches on the pattern.
Staystitch in place by sewing just under 5/8” along the side seam then pivoting just under 2 3/8” from the hemline and sewing just under 2 3/8” from the edge along the hemline, pivoting once more and sewing up the center front just under 5/8” from the edge.
Note: The 2 3/8″ from the bottom edge is for views A & E. If you are making the longer length view C – first sew under 5/8″ along side seam and center front. And then stitch close to the bottom edge of the pocket. We’ll be going over this in the lined pockets post.
Repeat for the other pocket, making sure they sure they are lined up along the center front.
Optional: pocket divisions. We have found that dividing the pockets into sections using topstitching creates opportunities for aesthetically pleasing and functional smaller pockets for things like mobile phones, keys, sewing tools etc. This can be done on all views but is particularly nice on the cropped views E & F.
To do this – measure the width of your phone or object you would like a custom pocket for, or just lay it down on your pocket, and add 1 1/8”.
Measure this distance in from the collar band, and draw a straight line down using tailors chalk or another marking tool.
Topstitch along this line from the top of the pocket to the bottom of the pocket.
And that’s it!
| LOOKING FOR MORE HOVEA POSTS? |
Here’s the full list of Hovea inspiration and ideas:
- Inspiration & Ideas for Hovea
- Hovea Tester Roundup
- Hovea Curve Tester Roundup
- Hovea Planning Template
- Traditional Korean Textile Arts with Youngmin Lee
- Beginner Quilting concepts with The Weekend Quilter
- Top 10 tips from a quilters first journey into Me Made Clothing with Shannon Fraser
- Introduction to Indian Kantha Quilting with Manjari Singh
- Simple Log Cabin patchwork tutorial with Scribbly Gum Quilting Co
- Wholecloth quilting with Natalie Ebaugh
- Introduction to Japanese textiles and embroidery with Mari Yamada
- How to make a patchwork quilt design without a pattern with Broadcloth Studio
- Modern Quilting with Porfiria Gomez
- Making a patchwork jacket with leftover fabric
Here’s the full list of Hovea tutorials & Hacks:
- Sewalong | How to Choose Between Hovea & Hovea Curve
- Sewalong | Common Hovea pattern alterations
- Sewalong | Quilting prep
- Sewalong | Quilting Design & Planning
- Sewalong | Machine quilting
- Sewalong | Tips for making a patchwork jacket from scrap fabrics
- Sewalong | Basic Binding Method for quilt coats
- Sewalong | Pockets and Seams Quilted Views BDF
- Sewalong | Inset Sleeves Quilted Views BDF
- Sewalong | Final Finishes Quilted View BDF
- Sewalong | Tips for Hand Quilting
- Pattern Hack | Tips for making Hovea reversible
- Pattern Hack | Sewing a Hovea Dressing gown
- Pattern Hack | How to make a quilt coat from a vintage bed quilt
- Sewalong | Unlined pockets Views ACE (this post!)
- Sewalong | Lined pockets Views ACE
- Sewalong | Flat Sleeve Insertion Views ACE
- Sewalong | Ties & Hang Loop Views ACE
- Sewalong | Hemming Unlined Views ACE
- Sewalong | Full Lining Views ACE
- Sewalong | Collar band Views ACE
- Sewalong | Belt & Belt Loops Views ACE
Don’t have the pattern yet?!