Welcome back for the second post of the Veronika skirt Sewalong! Today we will tackle the waistband and zipper.
I know zippers can be intimidating but have no fear! I’m here to guide you through each step. The construction is simple and straightforward, so let’s get sewing!
First, we will prepare the waistline of the skirt by sewing a scant 5/8” (1.5cm) basting stitch around the raw edge.
Note: I like to keep my raw edge at the 5/8” (1.5cm) seam gauge on my sewing machine and move my needle a bit to sew just under 5/8” (1.5cm).
Next, clip along the waistline at regular intervals, but be careful not to clip the stitches. This will allow the waistline to ease into the waistband during a later step.
Following the directions for your interfacing, apply the fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband. Mark the centre of the waistband (I like to use clips).
With the waistband and skirt right sides together, line up the centre mark of the waistband with the right side seam of the skirt. Carefully ease the skirt into the waistband and pin/clip.
Sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge to attach the waistband to the skirt. You’ll be sewing near the waistline basting line that was sewn previously. Press the seam up towards the waistband.
Now let’s install the invisible zipper!
Note: I like to iron my zipper as recommended by the package. I use low heat to be careful not to melt the coils and iron the teeth flat.
Place the zipper face down on the right side of the fabric, so that the zipper teeth are facing away from the seam edge. The coil should be placed on the seam line, 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge. Pin or clip the zipper to the skirt.
Note: You may also use wash away hem tape to secure the zipper at the proper placement before sewing.
Next, sew along the zipper tape close to the coil. Stop when your machine foot hits the zipper slider, and backstitch to secure the stitches. I like to use my invisible zipper foot as it allows me to get perfect stitch placement next to the coils. A regular zipper foot may also be used.
Note: If using an invisible zipper foot, the coil will go in the right slot of the machine foot with the needle to the left.
Place the other side of the zipper tape face down, right sides together, on the right side of the opposite skirt edge. The coil should once again be along the 5/8” (1.5cm) seamline. Double-check to make sure your zipper is not twisted at the bottom. Pin, clip, or use wash away hem tape to secure the zipper placement for sewing.
Note: I like to check my zipper placement and be sure my waistband seams line up.
To do this I zip up the zipper while it’s clipped/pinned and make any adjustments before it’s sewn.
Sew along the zipper tape as done on the previous side. Sew close to the coil and stop and backstitch when your machine foot hits the zipper slider. Note: If using an invisible zipper foot, the coil will now go in the left slot of the machine foot with the needle to the right.
Close the zipper and pin or clip the rest of your skirt seam, right sides together. Pull the end of the zipper tape out of the way.
Place a regular zipper foot on your machine and sew starting a little above where your stitches for the zipper ended. Sew as close as you can to the zipper stitches and the 5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowance for about an inch or two. Backstitch to secure the stitches.
Once you’ve cleared the end of the zipper tape, switch to a regular sewing machine foot and sew the rest of your seam at a 5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowance.
Here’s our completed zipper side seam.
And the zipper with the skirt inside out.
Now let’s finish the waistband using the waistband facing.
Fold up 5/8” (1.5cm) along the bottom edge of the waistband facing and press.
Unzip the skirt and flip the zipper tape and seam outwards so they lie flat. Lay the waistband facing on top of the waistband with right sides together. The short edge of the waistband facing should be in line with the side of the waistband and zipper tape.
Pin or clip them together along the top long edge and short sides.
Sew the short side of the facing to the waistband and zipper tape. This seam allowance will NOT be 5/8” (1.5cm) as we need to be careful to not sew too close to the zipper teeth (or the zipper will not have room to close). So feel where the zipper teeth are and sew 1/8” (3mm) to 1/4” (6mm) away from it. With your needle down, turn and sew 5/8” (1.5cm) from the raw edge along the top of the waistband.
When you reach the other side of the waistband, turn and sew down the side of the waistband facing attaching it to the waistband and zipper tape. Once again, this short edge will be sewn at a smaller seam allowance than 5/8” (1.5cm), as we do not want to get too close to the zipper teeth. Stop stitching and backstitch when you reach the folded edge of the facing.
Clip the corners of the waistband and turn the waistband and facing right side out. You may use a pointing tool to push the corners out.
Next, we will secure the facing to the waist seam. This may be hand sewn on the inside of the skirt, but today I will show you how I like to topstitch mine in place.
Pin the waistband facing to the skirt just slightly past the waistband stitching. Note: you may use wash away hem tape to secure the facing positioning instead of pins.
Now topstitch on the right side of your skirt to secure the facing. You may sew about 1/8” (3mm) away from the waistband seam.
Now all of our waistband seams are enclosed nicely and our zipper is complete!
Hooray for sewing a waistband and zipper! Stop and admire your work!
We’ve completed the majority of the skirt and for the next and final post, we will finish with the hem!
// LOOKING FOR MORE VERONIKA POSTS? //
Here’s the full list of the upcoming Veronika posts and tutorials:
- Veronika is now available in extended sizes!
- Veronika Inspiration & Ideas
- How to // Pocket & Seams
- How to // Hemming
- How to // Waistband & Zipper (this post!)
- How to // Knit version
- Pattern hack // Paperbag waist
- Pattern hack // Veronika in Brocade
- How to // Sew a Horsehair Braid Hem
- A simple trick for evening out the hem of a circle skirt
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