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How To Make Bulk Bias Binding

Bulk Bias Binding Hack

So you’ve heard that we’ve just released Mini Darling Ranges, you’ve got 10 daughters and you’re thinking to yourself, can I be bothered making enough bias binding for ALL those gorgeous matching dresses? Well, firstly, Woah. That’s a lot of daughters, and that’s a lot of binding. I can’t relate to the 10 daughters part, but I have had to make ridiculous amounts of bias binding before, and I’m here to tell you how to make bulk bias binding, the EASY WAY!

This method involves a bit more sewing than the continuous strip method which I know is really popular, but it results in fewer seams in your binding, and also gives you the opportunity to line up stripes or checks if you’re a big fan of pattern matching like me. It involves some fancy folding and accurate cutting but taking it step by step, it’s a super easy way to make a huge amount of binding relatively quickly. And when I say huge, I mean HUGE! Today I’m making around 40m (almost 44 yards) of binding! But of course, the same technique can be used on a smaller scale too.

This method isn’t just for people with lots of daughters, it’s also great for making binding for the edges of quilts, super easy bunting or spaghetti straps, for binding seams on the inside of garments or for a decorative bound edge on the outside of garments – the list goes on. Having your own giant stash of binding, ready to go at a moment’s notice, is ridiculously handy – so let’s get started!


Before we jump into making our bias binding, we should probably have a chat about what it actually is!

Woven fabric is made up of threads that run horizontally across the fabric (the weft weave) and threads that run vertically up and down the fabric (the warp weave), and you’ll notice that when you pull against these threads, most woven fabrics don’t stretch. Something cut on the “bias” has been cut at a 45° angle to the edges of the fabric (and the warp and weft weaves). Why is it cut at a 45° angle you ask? Well, that’s because fabric (even non-stretch fabric), has more of a “stretch” or give when you pull it between its weave!

The stretch that fabric cut on the bias has, gives it the ability to mould and adapt to different shapes, like curvy hips in gorgeous bias-cut dresses! So bias binding is simply strips of fabric that have been cut on the bias which can do this same moulding & adapting! It’s pretty wonderful stuff and we go into it in a little more detail here, so check it out if you’re looking for more info on bias. Now we’re full bottle on what it is, let’s get to the making part!


  • Rotary cutter
  • Cutting mat
  • A rule to cut with, a clear quilting rule with guidelines works best
  • A piece of pre-washed, light to mid-weight fabric
  • A bias tape maker (optional)

How much binding you’ll end up with depends on the binding width you plan to make, the width of your fabric, and the length of the fabric piece you are working with. This method works best with a relatively square piece of fabric, but it doesn’t have to be exact. If your width x length ratio gets more than about 1.5 though, it doesn’t work as well.

This is what I have used for today’s tutorial:

  • Fabric width: 150cm (59″
  • Yardage: 1.6m (just over 1.6 yards)
  • Binding width: 5cm (2″)
  • Yield: Approximately 40m of binding (almost 44 yards)

You might not need that much, so you can always use a square or rectangle piece that’s not the full width of your fabric!


How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Squaring Off EdgesFirst things first, you’ll need to square off the cut ends of the fabric so they are a perfect 90° to the selvedge edge. I find it easiest to do this with the fabric folded in half so that the selvedge edges are aligned, and so I’m cutting through two layers of fabric.

Line up your quilting ruler with the selvedge edges, making sure it’s square to the folded edge at the other end of the ruler too, and use your rotary cutter to trim. You can do the same to the other cut end, before also trimming off the selvedges (which I forgot to do, whoops!).


Fold 1 – Cut Edge To Selvedge

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Folding The Cut Edge To The Selvedge

Now that we have lovely squared edges, we are going to take one corner and bring it diagonally over so that the full width of one cut edge meets with one of the selvedge edges.

If you have a perfect square, the corner you are pulling will line up with its opposite corner. If you are working with a rectangle, use the shorter edge of your fabric as the “cut edge” and the longer as the “selvedge edge”. The corner you are pulling won’t end up matching with another corner, but will sit somewhere along the “selvedge edge”.

Megan Nielsen Patterns | How to Make Bulk Bias Binding | Edges

It doesn’t matter if your fabric is right side up or down, but it does matter that you take the time to match up the edges the best you can and that the corner where your cut and selvedge edges intersect, is a nicely aligned point. This new folded edge we’ve created is what this method is centred around, and from this point on I’m going to call it the “diagonal edge”. The other two fabric edges which we didn’t specifically align aren’t the important ones in this folding process, and I refer to them in the next step as the “other” cut/selvedge edges.

Fold 2 – In Half

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Folding The Diagonal Edge in Half

Now take your pointed corner and bring it across, so that the diagonal edge is being doubled over.

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - The Diagonal Edge in Half

If your fabric piece isn’t a square and the other cut edge extends beyond the other selvedge edge, pull the pointed corner further along the diagonal edge (still keeping it aligned) so the fold we are making is over half way and the tip of the pointed corner is more in line with the other cut edge’s corner of the fabric.

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Checking The Fold Is At A Right AngleAt this point, it’s important to check the fold you just made is 90° to the diagonal edge and to take the time to readjust if it’s not quite right. Otherwise, you might end up with chevron-shaped binding strips!

Fold 3 – In Quarters

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Folding The Diagonal Edge Into QuartersHow To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Checking The Edges Are Aligned & The Fold Is A Right AngleThe final fold you’ll need to make is once more along the diagonal edge, so it’s now approximately in quarters. Be sure to check again that the fold is at a 90° angle, and that all of the layers of the diagonal edge are nicely aligned.

The purpose of the last two folds we’ve just done is to make the diagonal edge a length that’s short enough to be able to cut in one go with our rulers. If you started off with a much smaller piece of fabric and your diagonal edge was short enough to cut before this final fold, then you don’t need to make it! And if you’re working with a really wide fabric or short rule, you may need to make another fold.

As you know, I can’t resist a good diagram, so here’s a little summary of what we’ve just covered:

Megan Nielsen Patterns | How to Make Bulk Bias Binding | Folding Your Fabric


(Note: I am right-handed, so if you’re left-handed, it will probably be more comfortable to swap things around!)

Cut 1 – Trimming The Diagonal Edge

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Trimming The Diagonal EdgeWith the bulk of your fabric underneath, push your ruler up to the diagonal edge which is where we are going to make our first cut. Use the horizontal guides of your ruler to line yourself up with the top and bottom folded edges of your fabric. This first cut sets you on your way for the rest of your binding, so make sure it’s nice and square!

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Trimming The Diagonal Edge & Rotating FabricTo reduce waste, get as close as you can to the folds of the diagonal edge before you hold your ruler firmly and trim them away. To keep your ruler steady and in place, you may need to pause halfway through the cut and move your stabilising hand to a higher position. That’s our first cut done! Woo! Now, rotate your cutting mat and fabric with it, so your fabric is on your cutting-hand side.

Cut 2 & Beyond – Cutting Your Bias Strips

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Cutting Your First Bias StripsNow with the bulk of your fabric on the other side of your ruler, line the vertical guides up with the freshly trimmed diagonal edge so that your ruler is covering the fabric for the width that you want your binding to be. Be sure to line up the top and bottom folded edges of the fabric again with the horizontal lines of the ruler. With everything in place, hold your ruler steady and cut your first strips of binding!

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Continuing To Cut Your Bias Strips

Scoot your ruler along to line up the newly cut edge with your vertical guides, check your top and bottom folded edges are square and cut again, then again…then again. You’re on a roll now! Look at you go! If during the process, you notice your cuts are getting less square, it’s ok to pause, spin your cutting mat back around, and trim your edge slightly to get it back to the 90° angle you need.

Keep at it until you reach the end and are left with two little triangles. That’s all your cutting done! How easy was that? Here’s another little summary of what we just covered:

Megan Nielsen Patterns | How to Make Bulk Bias Binding | Cutting Your Bias Strips


Sewing Prep

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Sorting Into Size PilesNow with it all cut, I like to unfold and sort my binding into size groups so I can evenly spread the tiny and medium-sized pieces between the big, full-length strips. I set my piles up next to the sewing machine, and pick from my different groups as I go, but depending on your space and the way you like to sew, you might find a different method that works better for you.

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Matching EndsTo stitch your strips together, you’ll need to align the ends so that the short angled edges are in line, and the two pieces are at right angles to each other. Once you have them together, slide them diagonally up or down (with the edges still aligned) to increase or decrease the amount that the tips of the strips stick out – this determines the amount of seam allowance you have. You will be sewing from the point that the pieces intersect, parallel to the angled edges, to the intersection point on the other side. The seam allowances don’t have to be exact but approximately 6mm (1/4″) is a good amount.

If you’re using striped or checked fabric and you’re pedantic like me, you might want to match up your stripes. It’s more time-consuming but the end result is oh-so satisfying. You can pick and choose strips to find ends that go well together, but sometimes when there aren’t any good matches, you can just increase the seam allowances of the join to a point where the pattern does align, and simply trim off the excess later.

An important thing to note at this point is whether or not your fabric has a right and wrong side. If the sides are obvious, it’s super easy to make sure you’re continuously putting right sides together while you are sewing, but if it’s not super obvious – just take care. Once you’re in full binding sewing swing, it’s easy to forget and have pieces with the fabric the wrong way out, or the seam allowances swapping from one side of the binding to the other.

At the start, you may wish to pre-pin, but as you get into the swing of it, it’s easy enough to simply place the pieces together and sew them as they are.


How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Sewing Your First Binding SeamHow To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Saving Time & Thread By Sewing Your Binding Seams In A Continuous Line

When you’re sewing 40m of binding, with around 40 joins, it would be incredibly time and thread consuming to back stitch and cut threads between every seam. So instead, you can just sew the binding pieces together in one continuous row of stitching, pausing before the end of each seam to line up the other end of the piece you’re currently stitching with the next strip, before continuing on. Machines don’t always like stitching thin air, but if it’s only a couple of stitches between pieces, you can get away with it!

The aligning and sewing of the strips is the more time-consuming part of making binding but put on some good music or a podcast, don’t forget to stretch your back and neck every so often, and it’ll be done in no time! By the end, you’ll have a big long string of bias loops.

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Sewing Your Binding Seams


How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Trimming Threads & Seam AllowancesYou’re on the last leg! Now you just need to trim the threads connecting the pieces, and while you’re at it, the overhanging tips of the seam allowances, so that they are flush with the rest of the strip.

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - PressingIf there are any seam allowances that are a bit bulky, you can trim these back as well, before pressing all of the seams so that the seam allowances of each join are all pointing in the same direction. This may seem a bit tedious, but the end result will be cleaner, crisper, and so much easier to pull through a bias tape maker if you are planning on using one. If you’re not though, you can alternatively press the seams open, which will help to reduce bulk.


How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Bias Tape MakersHow To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Using A Bias Tape Maker Depending on your project, you may need your bias strips flat, pressed in half, or with the raw edges folded in, the latter of which is most easily achieved with a bias tape maker! It’s a handy little tool which comes in different sizes depending on the width of the binding you are wanting to make and I highly recommend them!

To start off, you feed the end of your bias strip into the large end of the tool, gently pushing it through till the point peeks out the other side. The strip should be wrong side up, and you should be feeding it in the same direction that your seam allowances are pressed, so they glide easier through the tool instead of getting caught. Then you just need to grab this emerging tail and tug it through, so the binding begins to pull smoothly out in a folded formation. It won’t stay like that though, so before it unfurls, you need to press it into place with your iron, pulling the tool as you go and keeping some tension in the strip. If your fabric type permits, steam is your friend, but be careful not to burn your fingers! Use the little metal handle to pull, so you can keep your hands further away from the iron.

Once you’ve made it through your big pile of binding, if you’re not using it all at once, take a comfy seat, put your feet up and wind all of your beautiful binding into a roll or wrap it around something like an empty overlocking bobbin or cardboard tube to keep it freshly pressed and in mint condition until you need it!

And that’s all folks! Did you ever think making so much binding could be so easy?!

Happy sewing everyone!

Naomi x

How To Make Bulk Bias Binding - Fini!
About Author

Naomi is the Design Assistant here at Megan Nielsen Patterns, and our resident helping hand. She stays busy assisting Meg with pattern development leg work, getting super excited about good instructional diagrams and making green coloured fabric suggestions for every sample we make. She’s a problem solver, a fabric addict, a serial tea-forgetter and a passionate maker.

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Sue Stoney
3 years ago

This is so good! I love learning new ways of doing things. Thank you ?

Jojo Sewist
3 years ago
Reply to  Sue Stoney

I am stupid I guess but this was very confusing. I thought I was following along, but really needed your diagrams. Then the last step w/ruler and beginning to cut, no…. you must have unfolded or something. Because the fabric no longer has the same shape as shown in the previous picture. I usually find your step by step approach w/diagrams easy to understand. I am pedantic also, and need rules and explanations for everythjng.

Katie O'Mara
Katie O'Mara
3 years ago

This is amazing! I am so excited to try it – I really struggle with the continuous method, so this may be a much better fit for me.

kalu davies
kalu davies
3 years ago

Where do you get a bias tape maker from?

3 years ago
Reply to  kalu davies

Hi Kalu! We got ours from Spotlight, but they’re quite commonly found in most large sewing stores :)

kalu davies
kalu davies
3 years ago
Reply to  Meg

Thank you!


[…] around 50 meters from a piece of floral cotton measuring approximately 1.40 x 1.40 meters. I used a tutorial from Megan Nielsen’s blog, and to tell you the truth, it IS a lot of bias tape to cut, sew and iron. It took probably at […]

2 years ago

This is so well done – thank you!! I’ve trying to follow a video of this technique forever, but it was rushed and not very clear. Your descriptions, diagrams, and video clips are just amazing. I can’t wait to make and use allll the bias binding!

2 years ago
Reply to  Pamici

We are so glad you found it helpful!!

Stephanie Fifield
4 months ago

Is there a method for figuring out how much yardage you need to make a certain amount of bias binding?

4 months ago

Hi Stephanie,

Unfortunately given widths of fabrics and bindings all differ, the best way I have found is simply to sketch out to scale the amount of fabric and the binding you will cut and then add it up. If you find a better a method let me know!!!

4 months ago
Reply to  Meg

OK that makes sense. I tried this method, but went back to my slipcover days when I’d make yards and yards of piping. I use a parallelogram and create a seam offset by one width at the end. I end up with one seam and about 4 yards of bias for each piece.