Are you ready to start our Opal pants and shorts construction?! The first step we are going to cover are the inseam pockets! This can be done on any view, tapered or wide leg, pants or shorts. But if you plan on doing the patch front pockets, you can go ahead and skip this post. I’m going to keep this short and sweet, so let’s just get right to it!
First things first, make sure you are using the correct pattern piece for whichever view you are making. The pocket pattern pieces are slightly different for the tapered view vs. the wide leg views. The inseam pocket A  is more curved along its side seam edge to fit with the tapered leg hip shape, and the inseam pocket B & D  is less curved because the wide leg hip shape is straighter. The construction process is exactly the same for both though!
Finish the raw curved edges of all 4 pocket pieces with your preferred method. I have overlocked my edges, but a zig zag stitch on a regular machine works fine to.
Place a pocket down on the Front and Back, with right sides together, so that the notches on the pattern pieces line up. Pin in place.
Sew 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the raw edge to attach the pockets to the side seams.
You can now finish the entire length of your side seams by your preferred method.
Press the pocket and seams outwards away from the pants. Sew a line of understitching along the pocket and seam allowance, about 1/8″ (3mm) from the seam, nice and close. This will keep the pockets from peaking out, and will give you a lovely crisp pocket opening edge.
Repeat for all 4 pockets.
Now place the Front and Back right sides together so that the pockets and side seams line up. Pin the top of the side seam, continuing down the rest of the seam from the bottom of the pocket and then around the curved edge of the pocket to hold everything in place. Be sure to let your front and back sit nice and flat when pinning the bottom of the pocket, to make sure they are matched evenly and you don’t end up with one side bubbling.
First, sew 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the side seam raw edge, from the waistline down to the first pocket notch. Be sure to sew close to your previous stitching, but just slightly further in, away from the raw edge, so none of the pocket seam will peak through into your side seam. Backstitch at the notch to secure.
Then, sew 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the raw edge along the side seam, starting and backstitching at the second pocket notch all the way down to the hemline. Again be careful to keep your pocket seam on the seam allowance side of your stitching.
Ensure that you do not sew the pants together at the side seam between the two notches, because that is your pocket opening!
Now sew 5/8″ (1.5cm) from the raw edge around the curved pocket edge until you reach the side seam. Stop when you reach your side seam stitching, being careful not to go further, and backstitch.
Press the pocket and seams towards the centre front and staystitch 1/2″ (1.3cm) from the raw edge along the waistline to hold the pocket in place.
Repeat for the other leg, and your pockets are ready!
// Looking for more Opal posts? //
- Inspiration and Ideas
- Tester Round-Up
- How to Lengthen Or Shorten the Pants
- Inseam Pockets (this post!)
- Patch Pockets (back pockets and front patch pockets)
- Seams (crotch seam, inseam, side seams)
- Belt Loops and Belt
- Waistband (B & D standard elastic waist)
- Paperbag Waistband (A & C)
- Bonus Hack – Cargo Side Pockets
- Bonus Hack – Drawstring Waistband
- Bonus Hack – Elastic Hem Joggers
- Opal Hack Ideas