Well, folks, we made it! We’ve come to the final step of the Opal construction! Can you believe how quickly everything came together?! This last leg (pun intended) is nice and quick too, so you’ll be wearing your new pants in no time. So let’s get on with it!
Before we start pressing, pinning, and stitching, first things first, give your pant’s a try on! We are all different shapes and sizes, and we all have different preferences about where we like our hems to sit. Opal is drafted to have a 1 1/2″ (3.5cm) hem allowance, so with that amount folded up, are you happy with where it’s sitting? One of my favourite things about sewing is that we get to choose exactly what is right for us. If you want it a little shorter, mark the finished length you’d like and add the extra 1 1/2″ (3.5cm) for hemming, before trimming the rest. If you want it just a little longer, try sewing a narrower hem to use some of that hem allowance for extra length, or alternatively, add a cuff!
So, if you’re sewing the standard hem (whether you’ve shortened or are using the original length leg) the next step is to turn in the raw edge of the leg end by 1/2” (1cm) to the inside of your garment and press.
Next, turn in the folded edge an additional 1” (2.5cm) to enclose the raw edges. Press again, and pin in place to keep it secure while you sew.
It’s important to keep your measurement of 1″ (2.5cm) nice and even, but also keep an eye on the hem edge shape. If it looks a little wobbly, even though your 1″ (2.5cm) fold up is super precise, you might need to unfold things and trim your hem slightly to get rid of any dips or just increase the hem fold up a little more in those sections. This can happen sometimes because things have moved around while sewing or the fabric has “dropped” more at certain points, but don’t stress, it’s an easy fix!
With everything in place, you can now topstitch just under 1” (2.5cm) from the hemline edge on the right side of the fabric. Your stitching should run very close to the folded edge of the hem on the inside garment and will encase all the raw edges. Be sure to check that the whole edge was caught and everything was secured. If it’s easier though, you can always just sew with the wrong side of the fabric facing up, so you can see exactly where that edge is – but be sure to use the folded hemline edge as your guide, not the inside folded edge, to make sure your stitching looks nice and even on the outside.
Trim your threads, give them a quick press, and there you have it, friends! Your own pair of Opals, ready to wear & love!
// Looking for more Opal posts? //
- Inspiration and Ideas
- Tester Round-Up
- How to Lengthen Or Shorten the Pants
- Inseam Pockets
- Patch Pockets (back pockets and front patch pockets)
- Seams (crotch seam, inseam, side seams)
- Belt Loops and Belt
- Waistband (B & D standard elastic waist)
- Paperbag Waistband (A & C)
- Hemming (this post!)
- Bonus Hack – Cargo Side Pockets
- Bonus Hack – Drawstring Waistband
- Bonus Hack – Elastic Hem Joggers
- Opal Hack Ideas
Don’t have the Opal sewing pattern yet?! Order Opal today! We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNopal and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!