Well everyone, we’ve made it! This is the last hack tutorial for the Opal Sewalong and I think it might just be my favourite – it’s the elastic hem jogger hack!
It’s super easy and creates a whole different look to the tapered leg view of Opal. Depending on your fabric choice the cinched ankle style can range from sporty to chic, and it’s so simple to do! It’s basically the normal hem that we covered in the previous hemming post of the Sewalong, but before the hem is fully stitched, we sneak in with the elastic!
Here, let me show you! For my jogger pant, I started with the original View A tapered leg hem width, but if you want a bit more volume you can always widen the leg, to then gather back in with the elastic.
Start off by turning in the raw edge of the hemline by 3/8″ (1cm) and press. This is a little less than the standard hem, to create a larger casing for the elastic.
Fold up a further 1 1/8″ (just under 3cm) to encase the raw edges. Press and pin, ready to sew!
Sew around the hem, close to the folded edge, just under 1 1/8″ (3cm) from the hemline. Leave a gap in your stitching around 2” (5cm) long to thread the elastic through, like you did with the waistband.
Now it’s time for the elastic! I used 1″ (2.5cm) elastic and I figured out how much I needed for each piece by wrapping it around my ankle and testing the fit. It depends on your personal preference, but I wanted my hem to be cinched, but not too tight, so I only stretched the elastic very slightly. Add 1/2″ (1.3cm) to the measurement that feels comfortable for you, to allow for the overlap needed to join the ends, and cut two pieces.
Using a threading tool (like a Bodkin) or safety pin attached to the elastic end, thread your elastic around your hem, being careful not to twist it.
Overlap the elastic ends by 1/2″ (1.3cm) and pin in place.
Secure the ends with a zig zag stitch, back stitching at both the start and finish to make sure the join is nice and strong. Feed your elastic back into the casing, wriggling it down so it is sitting at the bottom of the hem edge.
Pin the gap in your elastic casing to hold everything in place, being careful not to catch the elastic, and topstitch along the remaining folded edge to secure the close. Stretch the cuff to its maximum a few times and wiggle things around to evenly distribute the elastic and hem fabric.
To prevent your elastic from twisting or curling during use, you can sew two vertical rows of straight stitching in the ditch of the side seams, or alternatively, you can stretch and sew through the centre of the elastic casing using a slightly longer stitch length.
To help your elastic settle back into its original shape after being stretched out, give your hems a steam with a steam iron or using a spray bottle and normal iron. And that’s it, you’re done!
That’s also our last hack tutorial for Opal! Have you given any a go yet? Don’t forget to let us know how they turn out!
// Looking for more Opal posts? //
- Inspiration and Ideas
- Tester Round-Up
- How to Lengthen Or Shorten the Pants
- Inseam Pockets
- Patch Pockets (back pockets and front patch pockets)
- Seams (crotch seam, inseam, side seams)
- Belt Loops and Belt
- Waistband (B & D standard elastic waist)
- Paperbag Waistband (A & C)
- Bonus Hack – Cargo Side Pockets
- Bonus Hack – Drawstring Waistband
- Bonus Hack – Elastic Hem Joggers (this post!)
- Opal Hack Ideas
We absolutely love seeing what you make, so don’t forget to tag your creations with #MNopal and @megannielsenpatterns when sharing on social media, and check out what everyone else is up to!