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MN2107 Olive / Sewalongs

Olive Sewalong // V-Insert Option 1

Olive sewalong v-insert option 1

Are you all ready for this one? Today is the day we insert the v-insert into the neckline of the Olive dress or blouse – the clean-finish method, where all the raw edges are enclosed. I know that this step is the most intimidating aspect of this pattern, but I’m going to tell you that there is no need to be scared! After completing both methods of insertion, this one and an the easier topstitched method (I’ll show you that one tomorrow), I actually completely prefer this method for the nice clean finish! It’s pretty easy once you get the hang of it, and can breeze though it with practice. So take a look at both methods and decide for yourself.

Now, this post is going to be pretty photo and info heavy to cover every aspect of this process. So don’t let that scare you off – it’s worth it! And remember – you already prepped the neckline and made your bias tape!

Ready to get started?

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsLay your front top right side up. Make sure you transfer the notches from the pattern.

Place your v-insert down upside down, so right sides are together.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsAlign one raw edge of the v-insert with the raw edge of the neckline.

Match up the top edge of v-insert with the notch on the neckline…

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns…and the bottom tip of the v-insert stitching should line up with the v-neckline stitching.

Try to get this exact as possible! The more accurate, the easier it is to get that perfect finished V.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsMake sure it is well pinned along that one side.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsNow sew in place, 1/4″ from the raw edge (should be right over top of the staystitching). Start at the top of the v-insert, working your way to the V point.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsWhen you reach the tip of the V, try to stop at the exact V point. Lower the needle at the exact V point, and lift the presser foot.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsPivot the top around so that the other side of the neckline is now lined up with the needle for sewing.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsHolding the top in place, gently pull over the v-insert as well. Pivoting it until the other raw edge lines up with the edge of the neckline.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsTake your time and be careful, making sure the top isn’t folded or bunched at the point. The clip you made into the V will help this.

The top will basically be folded in half right side together at this point.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsLine up the raw edges, again making sure that the top of the v-insert aligns with the notch. Pin this side in place.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsNow stitch down the second side 1/4″ from the edge, using the staystitching again as your guide. Stop and backstitch at the end of the v-insert.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsIt’s in! Press the seam allowance away from the V-insert, towards the top.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsThis is what The V tip underside looks like.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsIf any of the staystitching is visible from the right side of the garment, use your seam ripper to remove them.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsNow place your front and back top pieces together, right sides together.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsAlign the raw edges of the two shoulder seams and pin in place.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsSew together 5/8″ from the raw edge, and finish the raw edges with your preferred method.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsPress the seam allowance either open or towards the back.

Keep your garment open and flat like this, with the wrong side of the fabric facing you.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsNow we are going to start attaching the bias facing finish to hid the raw edges.

Starting at one side of the v-insert tip, line up the raw edge of the bias facing with the raw edge of the neckline/v-insert seam (the fold of the bias facing will be facing towards the v-insert). The beginning of the bias facing should extend beyond the V tip by about 1 5/8″.

Start pinning in place. I placed my first pin exactly at the V point stitching underneath, so I will know where to start sewing.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsAlso, note – with the garment laying flat here, it may look like I’m pinning to bodice, but you’re actually pinning to the raw edge only.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns Continue pinning the bias facing around the neckline. Once you get beyond the v-insert, you will actually be pinning to the right side of the garment.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsKeep pinning until you reach the V point again.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsAgain, on the other side of the v-insert, you pin to the raw edge only (not the rest of the top).

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsTrim the excess so that, again, there is 1 5/8″ extended beyond the V point.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsNow to make sewing a bit easier, unpin a couple inches on one side of the V-point for now.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsFold the garment in half with the raw edge facing out, so it’s easier to sew. You’re going to stitch 1/4″ from the raw edge, starting at the exact V-point (this is why i put a pin at this exact point, so I knew where to start).

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsNote – I sewed with the bias facing side up. But if it helps, you could instead sew from the other side (the bias facing underneath), so that you can use the stitching from the v-insert as a guide.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsSew 1/4″ from the raw edge around the entire neckline.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsAs you approach the the other side of the V point, stop a couple inches away from the end. Push the already stitched side to the side and out of the way.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsWith the other side pulled out of the way, now line up and pin the last couple of inches, making sure to mark with a pin where the exact spot of the V tip is. Finish stitching in place, stopping right at that exact V-point.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsIf everything lined up correctly, the beginning and end of your stitches on either side should be at the same point, with the two sides of the bias facing butted up against each other in between, if this makes sense.

Optional – you may wish the understitch the bias facing to keep it form rolling towards the fron of the garment. I’m going to show you in the next few steps. But if you don’t wish to do it, skip ahead a few photos to where we finish the v-point.

To understitch, press the seam allowance towards the bias facing, away form the bodice.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsHere is what it looks like form the right side, with the seam allowance and bias facing pressed away from the top.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsStitching on the bias facing and seam allowance only, stitch close to the seam, about 1/8″ away.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsDo this understitching around the entire bias facing/neckline.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsOk, now lets continue finishing the V point. Here you can see again how the stitching on either side line up right next to each other right at the V point.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsFold the garment in half, and line up the two extended edges of the bias facing. Line up the folded edges together, and the raw edges together.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsSew a diagonal line, starting exactly at the V-point, to the opposite corner of the bias facing. Be careful near the V point, making sure you are sewing on the bias facing only, and not catching any of the top in your stitches.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsTrim off the excess.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsAnd press the seam open.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsNow press the bias facing towards the inside of the garment, enclosing the raw edges of the seam allowance, pinning in place as you go.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsAt the tip, tuck the point of the bias facing under so that the tip of the bias facing almost touches the tip of the v-insert underneath.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsPin this bottom edge flat, creating a horizontal straight edge at the bottom of the facing.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen PatternsStitch close to the edge of the bias facing around the entire neckline, pivoting at the straight flat end.

How to attach the v-insert (clean finish method) on the Olive blouse and dress by Megan Nielsen Patterns This will create visible topstitching form the outside.

Alternatively, you could also use an invisible slipstitch by hand to secure to bias facing on the inside, so that no topstitch is visible form the outside.

And that’s it! You did it!

Still intimidated? Tomorrow I’ll show you a slightly easier method where you do the bias facing first, and then just topstich the v-insert in place.

// Looking for more Olive posts? //

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About Author

Holly writes part time for the Megan Nielsen blog– sewing like crazy, creating tutorials and sewalongs. She has been sewing since she was a little girl, and has her degree in apparel design. Now she’s a stay at home mama, and spends all her free nap times at her sewing machine.

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Muriel Tillman
Muriel Tillman
2 years ago

VERY clear and concise tutorial! Thank you for posting! Very well done.